93

2011 Domaine Laroche, Chablis 1er Cru Les Vaudevey, Burgundy

( £19.69, 12.5%, www.thefinewinecompany.co.uk )

I’ve been very critical of the 2011 vintage in Chablis (because of a root vegetable-like taint called geosmin that I find on too many of the wines) but this is a welcome exception to the rule, a clean, appealingly developed Chardonnay from an excellent Premier Cru. There’s a touch of oak on this wine, but it’s steered by fruit. Honey, pear and aniseed spice are nicely combined on the palate. 

Drinking window: 2014-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Chardonnay