A Premier Cru Burgundy from a great recent vintage for less than £15? Bargain time! This is rich, sweet and savoury, with bgas of sweet fruit, plenty of smoky oak and the concentration and texture to age in bottle for another five years at least. The finish is fine and refreshing, reflectingf the limestone slope on which it was grown.
Food Match: Lamb
2010 Negroamaro Rosso Filimei, L'Astore Masseria, Puglia
( £14.95, 13.5%, Berry Bros & Rudd )Negroamaro is often dismissed in northern Italy as a southern grape that lacks finesse, but it is capable of a delicacy and freshness that wouldn’t look out of place in a Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo if it’s sensitively handled. This is a case in point, an unoaaked, cherry stone and raspberry-scented red with notes of wild herbs and a nip of tannin. It’s light-bodied, too, especially by the standards of some beefy Puglian reds. A delight.
2011 Carmagnole Prestige, Caramany, Languedoc-Roussillon
( £9.99, 14%, Marks & Spencer )Caramany is the westernmost of the Côtes du Roussillon’s top appellations. Its altitude and comparatively cool conditions, allied to granite and quartz soils, produce wines of remarkable freshness and poise, just like this one. Cracked pepper and spice, with red fruits and bright acidity. The old vine Carignan gives the wine some savoury ballast.
2010 Kanonkop Kadette, Stellenbosch
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )This is only the baby wine from this historic Cape winery (hence Kadette) but it’s still very impressive. A blend of mostly Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon with splashes of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it’s elegant and poised with polished tannins, seamless integration between the varieties and lots of potential. Long and well balanced, this carries its 14% alcohol with effortless grace.
2009 Mayu Syrah Reserva, Elquí Valley
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )The coastal region of Elquí, close to the edge of the Atacama desert, is one of the most exciting in the world. And the wines from this Italian-influenced winery are leading the way. This has the cool climate pepperiness of Syrah (the Pacific is not far away) with notes of raspberry, tomato leaf and clove spice. Close your eyes and you could be drinking something very grand from the Rhône Valley.
2010 Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage, Les Meysonniers, Rhône Valley
( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Sainsbury's )The enfant terrible of the Rhône is at the top of his form right now, even on wines from lesser appellations, such as Crozes-Hermitage. This has classic Syrah aromas of tapenade and smoked meat, allied to freshness, brightness and length. It’s organic, its unoaked and it’s truly delicious.
2005 La Capannuccia Chianti Rufina, Tuscany
( £14.99 down to £11.24, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )Always good to see an Italian wine with some bottle age on a supermarket shelf, especially when it’s as good as this Sangiovese-based Tuscan red. It’s made in a modernised traditional style, with lovely floral, tealeafy flavours, fresh acidity and savoury, complex tannins. Drink it with a good winter stew and it will taste even better.
2010 Joseph Drouhin, Chorey-lès-Beaune, Burgundy
( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Waitrose )Drouhin is one of my favourite Burgundy négociants, equally adept at producing reds and whites. There may be some 2009 of this wine in the stores (as there is on line) but both recent vintages are superb. This is light, graceful and fragrant with fresh, crunchy acidity, a touch of minerality and balanced, nuanced red fruits’ flavours. Very impressive for a “mere” village wine.
2004 Viña Mara Rioja Gran Reserva, Rioja Alta
( £13.79, 14%, Tesco )Mature Rioja is one of my favourite wines, especially from a top vintage like 2004. This pure Tempranillo from the ever-reliable Barón de Ley winery will appeal to lovers of traditional Rioja, even though it is a varietal, rather than a blend with Garnacha. It’s savoury and sweet, with supple wild strawberry and game-like flavours, lovely vanilla oak and a complex, nuanced finish. At its best with lamb, but it’s a very versatile red.
2010 Biondi Cisterna Fuori IGT Sicilia, Etna, Sicily
( N/A, 13.5%, Vino Passione )Ciro Biondi’s new single vineyard Etna Rosso, bottled as an IGT due to a mix-up with this year’s paperwork, is still a baby – but already the attractive, lifted red fruit is approachable, and the tannins are muscular but refined. There’s a gorgeous lemon-candy/salty finish, along with slightly nervy acidity that should ensure a bright future. One to cellar for a couple of years, at least.
2009 Scilio Alta Quota Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily
( N/A, 14%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )Salvatore Scilio has one of the few organically certified estates on Mount Etna, and Alta Quota is his premium expression of Nerello Mascalese. The balance between acidity and structure is impressive, and the muscular, ripe fruit has a herby, rosemary scent running through it. Superbly elegant, and feels like one for the long haul.
2007 Benanti Rovitello Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily
( €13.50 Ex-cellar, 14%, Les Caves de Pyrene )Vinicola Benanti is one of the most established quality producers in the Mount Etna region. Their Rovitello vineyards are on the Northern slopes, and the slightly cooler ripening conditions are reflected in this elegant, mineral and smoky Nerello Mascalese/Nerello Capuccio blend.