Spend less, drink better

by Matt Walls
The UK is a nation of bargain hunters. There are more pound shops on Britain’s high streets than bookstores. When it comes to wine we’re no different; most of what...
89

2011 Triade Rosso, Puglia

( £8.99 down to £6.75, 13.5%, Waitrose )

This is a comparatively unusual southern Italian red, given the presence of one third of Nero di Troia alongside the more widely planted Primitivo and Negroamaro in the blend. It’s also quite light by the toothsome standards of some of the region’s high octane reds, but certainly not lacking in flavour. Plum and damson fruit are underpinned by sweet toasty oak and a refreshing, peppery finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, Red, Negroamaro, Nero di Troia, Primitivo
91

2010 Cantina di Negrar Amarone della Valpolicella, Veneto

( £17.99 down to £13.49, 15.5%, Waitrose )

Amarone can be something of a one glass wine if it’s too rich and raisiny (at least for me), but this one from the Cantina di Negrar gets the balance spot on. It’s a blend of mostly Corvina, with 15% each of Corvinone and Rondinella, aged in traditional Slavonian casks, rather thas smothered with new oak. Aromatic and spicy, this boasts flavours of plum, raspberry and dark chocolate, with refreshing acidity and the concentration to age further in bottle. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, Red, Corvina
89

2013 Valdo Oro Puro Porosecco Superiore NV, Valdobbiadene

( £12.99 down to £9.75, 11%, Waitrose )

There’s an ocean of chearp Prosecco on the market at the moment, but it’s worth trading up a bit to get hold of something with more concentration and flavour. This is light and fruity (as you’d expect), with peach and pear fruitiness, but there’s some appealing spice in the background, too, supported by a cushion of soft bubbles. Very gluggable. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, Sparkling, Prosecco
87

2012 Principe Pallavicini Poggio Verde Frascati Superiore Secco, Rome

( £8.50, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

Proper, bone-dry Frascati with good concentration and plenty of herbal, Mediterranean flavours. Saline and slightly bitter (no bad thing here, if you’re drinking the wine with food), this is a tangy, palate-cleansing white with a nutty finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, White, Malvasia di Candia, Trebbiano
89

2009 Villa di Vetrice Chianti Rufina Riserva, Tuscany

( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )

Chaintis from Rufina often have a slightly savoury, even rustic note to them, which distinguishes them from Classico styles. This great value example certainly has a little of that, but it’s offset by sweet red fruits. This is a fairly traditional style, combining Sangiovese with Canaiolo, with fairly sturdy tannins and a lift of volatile acidity. A pasta-bashing red. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, Red, Sangiovese
88

NV Albinea Canali Lambrusco Secco, Ottocentonero, Lambrusco dell'Emilia, Emilia-Romagna

( £7.95, 11.5%, The Wine Society )

Visitors to Bologna will be familiar with drier styles of the local frothy red, Lambrusco. Elsewhere, it tends to be regarded as sweet and a bit too commercial, which is a shame, as wines like this one deserve a wider audience. Juicy, dry and very drinkable, even with food, this has bright plum and black cherry fruit, a nip of tannin and a mouthful of bubbles. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, Sparkling, Cabernet Sauvignon, Lambrusco, Lancellotta