2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Qualitätswein, Mosel( TBC, 12%, www.sybillekuntz.de )
This is only the “entry point” Riesling in Sybille Kuntz’s range, but it’s enjoyably fresh, pithy and crisp with green apple acidity and a taut, refreshingly dry finish. The ripeness of the year makes this quite a full flavoured style.
2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Auslese Feinherb, Mosel( TBC, 12.5%, www.sybillekuntz.de )
One of a series of delicious releases from Sybille Kuntz in 2015, this is rich, but not heavy in the slightest, handling its 50 odd grams of residual sugar with ease, thanks to its thrillingly vivid acidity. Honey, spices, lime and remarkable palate length are the hallmarks of this classic-meets-modern Mosel style.
2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel( TBC, 12%, www.sybillekuntz.de )
A little less concentrated than the Spätlese release (as you’d expect) but this has ghe focus and freshness that are typical of all of Sybille Kuntz’s 2015s. Citrus, green tea and spring flower notes are underpinned by minerally acidity and stony, mouthwatering crispness. As pure as Riesling gets.
2015 Sybille Kuntz Riesling Spätlese Trocken, Mosel( TBC, 12.5%, www.sybillekuntz.de )
Delicious, mouth-watering dry Riesling from one of my favourite Mosel producers. The extra palate weight and the warmth of the vintage are a perfect foil for the mienralyy, cirtrus-edged acidity here. Pear and apple, with a hint of spice and a stony, bone dry finish.
Donald Trump’s World Atlas of Wineby Ron Washam
Some like it coolby Matt Walls
2013 Palatia Pinot Noir, Pfalz( £10 (down to £8), 13.5%, Marks & Spencer )
Gerd Stepp used to buy wine for Marks & Spencer before he returned to his former life as a winemaker in Germany. M&S’ loss is our gain (and they are still stocking his wines anyway) because this is an oustandingly well priced Pinot from a country that has more of the variety in the ground than New Zealand does. It’s a smooth, savoury, easy-drinking red with some spice, sweet plum and raspberry fruit, good texture and a long, supple finish underpinned by subtle oak.
Guerrilla winemakersby Matt Walls
2013 Sybille Kuntz, Riesling Kabinett Trocken, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer( €17.50, 12.5% )
The Riesling grapes that go into this cuvée come from a series of old vines sites in the Paul Valley close to the River Mosel. It’s another very assured performance, with a richness that’s almost remiscent of the Pfalz. Musky and faintly exotic, with lovely weight and density, sustained by tangy acidity. The balanced between slight sweetness and acidity is very well judged.
2013 Sybille Kuntz, Riesling Auslese Feinherb, Mosel( €39, 13% )
The best and oldest parcels on the Niederberg-Helden Einzellage are used to make this remarkable wine. It’s on the dry side for an Auslese, with 51.9 grams of sugar, with the concentration and slaty minerality beautifully entwined. Floral and appealingly honeyed, with notes of nectarine and ripe pear sustained by citrus- and pink grapefruit-like acidity
2013 Sybille Kuntz, Riesling Qualitätswein Trocken, Mosel( €11.90, 12% )
Sourced from single vineyard sites in Kues, Kardinalsberg and Weisenstein, this is “only” the entry point wine from this excellent estate. It’s just off-dry, with 8.3 grams of sugar balanced by acidity and crisp, refeshing flavours of green apple and grapefruit. The perfect summer wine…in 2015.