Country: France

Supergrapes vs. Evil Greegeo

by Matt Walls
Whenever I hear about a new graphic novel based around wine like The Drops of God or The Initiates, I get excited. They tend to be fairly grown-up affairs, but...
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88

2011 The Co-operative Truly Irresistible Domaine de La Noblaie Chinon, Loire

( £8.95, 13.5%, The Co-operative )

Unoaked Loire Cabernet Franc is one of my favourite styles wine: light, fresh and grassy, with subtle lead pencil aromas and a bright, cool climate finish. That’s exactly what you get here, with acidity that works really well with cheese and red meats.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, Red, Cabernet Franc
95

NV Henriot Blanc de Blancs, Champagne

( £44.00, 12%, Oddbins )

Sourced mostly from the Côte des Blancs and including 30% of reserve wines, Henriot’s Blanc de Blancs is a non vintage wine that tastes like a vintage release. It’s rich, toasty and just off dry with notes of brioche and toast and a subtle, tapering finish. One of the best Blanc de Blancs on the market. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, France, Sparkling, Chardonnay
91

2010 Château Sainte-Eulalie, Minervois La Livinière, Languedoc-Roussillon

( £11.50, 14.5%, The Wine Society )

Syrah, Grenache and Carignan  combine to very good effect in this dense, spicy, garrigue-scented red from the best part of the Minervois appellation. It’s a sun-kissed number with ripe, yet full tannins, flavours of blackberry, rosemary, thyme and liquorice and a chalky undertone from its vineyard source. Inky and ripe, but fresh and fine at the same time. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, Red, Carignan, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz
91

2012 Clos Floridene, Graves, Bordeaux

( £16.99, 13%, The Co-operative )

Great to see a supermarket taking a punt on a top white Graves, especially one made by the brilliant Denis Dubourdieu. This lightly oaked blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 47% Semillon and 3% Muscadelle is delicious, boasting notes of struck match, vanilla, pink grapefruit and subtle gooseberry. It’s the kind of wine that ages really well, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Muscadelle, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon
91

2008 Château Ollieux Romanis Atal Sia, Corbières Boutenac, Languedoc-Roussillon

( £17, 14%, The Wine Society )

Sourced from the best area of the Corbières, this Carignan-based blend is a stunner, exhibiting aromas of lavender, mint, rosemary, plum and blackberry, with serious, ageworthy tannins and an unmistakeable whiff of garrigue. Essence of the south of France. And another wine that has aged extremely well. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Carignan
92

2008 Domaine de Montcalmès, Coteaux du Languedoc, Languedoc Roussillon

( £20, 14%, The Wine Society )

One of the best reds in the Languedoc (and at a very affordable price, too), this blend of Syrah with 20% each of Grenache and Mourvèdre also proves that the region’s top wines age gracefully. It’s sweet and savoury with fruit flavours that nod towards Pinot Noir as well as more Mediterranean varieties, but with a dusting of wild herbs and a touch more alcohol.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, France, Red, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah/Shiraz
90

2009 Château Sénéjac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux

( £13.99, 13.5%, The Co-operative )

On a deal for the next week, before it reverts to £16.99 after Christmas, this is a well-balanced, aromatic claret that is more focused and refined than many 2009s, but is still pretty forward and full of flavour: with subtle oak, riple plum and blueberry fruit and medium weight tannins. Very drinkable. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, Red, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot