90

2013 Mission Estate Winery, Riesling, Hawkes Bay

( £11.50, 11.5%, Cockburn & Campbell )

Made in an off-dry style that is typical of New Zealand, this has impressive concentration and depth of flavour. It’s perfumed and floral, with the fruit sweetness balanced by acidity and freshness. Lime and toast are the dominant flavours here with a hint of tannin on the finish. 

Drinking window: 2014-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, New Zealand, White, Riesling

Newcomers on the scene

by Matt Walls
They wouldn’t have got past the elevator pitch in Dragons’ Den. “So you want to sell premium Austrian wines from a transport container in the East End of London?” summarises...
90

2012 Terraprima Massís del Garraf, Penedès

( £12, 12.5% )

An off-the-wall blend of Riesling and the Cava grape, Xarel-lo, this is something to challenge your friends with in a blind tasting. It’s got that slight earthiness of Xarel-lo, leavened by the acidity and lime blossom notes of Riesling, made in a dry style that works really well with food. Stony, mineral and ocean-influenced. 

BuyDrinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White, Riesling, Xarel-lo
93

2012 Darting Estate Dürkheimer Kabinett Riesling Trocken, Pfalz

( £9.49 down to £7.12, 12.5%, Marks & Spencer )

If your impression of German Riesling is that it tends to be sweet, try this off-dry number from one of the best names in the southerly Pfalz region. It’s very aromatic, with exotic, tropical fruit notes, a hint of carbon dioxide on the palate, lovely, crunchy, peach and apple fruit and bright, focused acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Germany, White, Riesling
88

2012 Loosen Brothers Grey Slate Dr L Reserve Riesling, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 10%, Waitrose )

This is a step up from Ernie Loosen’s widely available (and very drinkable) Dr L Riesling, made exclusively for Waitrose. The result is a classic Mosel Riesling, with sappy, sweet and sour flavours, notes of lemon and lime and a finely-judged interplay beween acidity, fruit and residual sugar. Long and refreshing. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Germany, White, Riesling
89

2011 Tanners Mosel Riesling Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

( £10.95, 11%, Tanners )

The supplier for Tanners’ impressive own-label Mosel Riesling Kabinett is none other than the Max Ferd. Richter winery, which is something of a coup. The result is delicious. It’s at the lower end of the sweetness scale (at 27 grams per litre), showing 11% alcohol and a comparatviely “dry” finish. Youthful and zingy, with a touch of carbon dioxide and racy, palate-tingling acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Germany, White, Riesling
91

2012 Finest* Tingleup Riesling, Western Australia

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 11%, Tesco )

I told you Janice McDonald was an ace white wine maker and this is further proof of her talents, this time with Riesling. This is a beautifully, poised, ageworthy style, focused and pithy with youth on its side and bone dry, lime-scented fruit. Buy a few bottles and see how they age over the next decade or so. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Australia, White, Riesling
90

2009 Leasingham Magnus Riesling, Clare Valley

( £9.49 down to £7.11, 12%, Sainsbury's )

Another Aussie white that may appear a little long in the dental department, but has actually benefited from the extra bottle age. This is just off-dry, showing delicious, lemon, lime and toasty flavours with a hint of kerosene. Focused and long, this is great with Asian food. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Australia, White, Riesling

Everyday value?

by Matt Walls
Lined up against the wall in my hallway, they stood quietly like forlorn commuters queuing for a bus. These were not bottles to make a taster salivate. Why didn’t I...