94

NV Henriot Rosé, Champagne

( £46, 12%, Fortnum & Mason, Harvey Nichols, Oddbins, Planet of the Grapes )

A rosé that deserves to be just as famous as Laurent Perrier’s, this is a blend of mostly Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims and Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs with a little Pinot Meunier. The high percentage of reserve wines (25%) gives the wine added depth and complexity. It’s a complex, red fruit-dominated rosé with a hint of blackcurrant leaf, a balsamic undertone, fine bubbles and refeshing acidity. A really good food rosé.

Drinking window: 2014-16Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, France, Sparkling, Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay

Spend less, drink better

by Matt Walls
The UK is a nation of bargain hunters. There are more pound shops on Britain’s high streets than bookstores. When it comes to wine we’re no different; most of what...
92

2012 Tolpuddle Pinot Noir, Tasmania

( £45.00, 13%, Liberty Wines )

Not quite as thrilling as the Tolpuddle Chardonnay, but this is still an impressive Aussie Pinot from Tasmania’s Coal River Valley. Supple and fragrant, with aromas of rose petal and red fruits, a touch of oak, fine tannins and good grip on the finish. The cool climate acidity gives the wine real length on the finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, Australia, Red, Pinot Noir
93

2011 Craggy Range Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Martinborough

( £22.50, 13.5%, Majestic )

Craggy Range makes some of the best Pinot Noirs in New Zealand, without charging the high prices of some of its competitors. This is a typically savoury Martinborough Pinot Noir, with less colour than examples from Central Otago, but more complexity than the majority from Marlborough. Red cherry and pomegranate, toasty oak, medium-weight tannins and a long, refreshing finish. It should age nicely, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, New Zealand, Red, Pinot Noir
89

2012 Palatia Pinot Noir, Pfalz

( £8.99 down to £6.74, 13%, Marks & Spencer )

I’ve described this as the best value Pinot Noir in the UK before and I have no reason to change my mind, especially when it’s on a deal. It’s soft and fragrant with attractive strawberry fruit sweetness, supple tannins and fresh acidity. A hint of oak (from barrels, not staves) adds to the sense of a wine that is over-delivering. Well done, Gerd Stepp! If only Burgundy could do this under £9. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Germany, Red, Pinot Noir
94

2004 Waitrose Brut Special Reserve Vintage Champagne

( £30.99 down to £23.25, 12%, Waitrose )

Waitrose doesn’t source its Vintage Champagne from P&C Heidsieck any more, alas, so get hold of this amazing fizz while it’s still on the shelves. It’s toasty and rich, with layer upon layer of flavour, fine bubbles, incredible length and just enough dosage to balance the acidity. A complex, savoury bubbly that’s a steal under £30. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, France, Sparkling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
88

NV Finest* Premier Cru Champagne Brut, Champagne

( £19.99 down to £12.74, 12.5, Tesco )

Just in case you think I’ve got the maths wrong, this wine is already on a deal until October 1st at £16.99, so the combined discount brings it to £12.74. It’s a youthful, Chardonnay-dominated bubbly with 30% Pinot Noir adding fruit to the former variety’s acidity and structure. It could do with a little more bottle age (what do you expect for such a well-priced wine?) so don’t be afraid to tuck it away for a year or two. But right now, it’s very drinkable: zesty and fresh, with notes of citrus, wet stone and brioche.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, Sparkling, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay
91

2011 Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

( £16.99, 13%, Morrisons )

This is one of the best value Pinots, not only in Australia, but the entire world. It’s just as good as plenty of village level Burgundies that would cost two or three times more. Subtle and refined on the nose, with aromas of wild flowers and a hint of earthiness, it’s fresh and persistent on the palate with impressive length, bright minerality and sweet and savoury notes. An Aussie Saivgny-lès-Beaune. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Australia, Red, Pinot Noir
87

2011 Cramele Recas Paparuda Pinot Noir

( £5.70, 13.5%, Adnams )

This is the first wine I’ve ever reviewed on this site from Romania, but it’s a gift to Pinot Noir lovers. Quite simply, this is the best cheap example of the grape in the world. There’s a hint of smoky oak (from a chip or a stave, no doubt), but it’s the fruit that really sings: cherry stone and raspberry with supple tannins and a core of sweetness. Not complex, but bright, cheerful and very drinkable. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Romania, Red, Pinot Noir
94

2009 Seresin Estate Raupo Creek Pinot Noir, Marlborough

( £25.99, 14%, Armit Wines )

The wines from this biodynamic estate in Marlborough are now among the best in the South Island. This is the pick of the current Pinot Noir releases, sourced from clay loam soils and showing an extra dimension of concentration, tannin and sap. It’s savoury and sweet, with taut acidity, subtle oak and impressive vivacity, line and length. A wine that wouldn’t look out of place in Burgundy.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-20Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, New Zealand, Red, Pinot Noir