90

2009 Château Marsyas, Békaa Valley

( £££, 14.2%, Contact the winery for details )

An impressive Lebanese blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay, which benefits from the consultancy of Bordeaux’s celebrated Stéphane Derononcourt. The high altitude of the vines (900 metres) is reflected in the freshness of the wine, which has notes of honey and cinnamon, a twist of orange peel and a long, well-balanced aftertaste.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Lebanon, White, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc
91

2010 Hatzidakis Santorini Assyrtiko

( £10.99, 13%, Waitrose )

Harry Hatzidakis makes some of the best whites on the volcanic holiday island of Santorini from the wonderful Assyrtiko grape. This is typically fresh and tangy, with a salty undertone, stony minerality and bright, lip-smacking acidity. The wine is shwowing really well right now after two years’ bottle age. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Greece, White, Assyrtiko
91

2010 Albert Bichot, Domaine Long Depaquit Chablis, Burgundy

( £13, 12.5%, Soho Wine Supply )

The wines from Albert Bichot are on a steep upward curve at the moment, nowhere more so than in Chablis. This is a classic, unoaked style with notes of oyster shell, steely acidity and enough creaminess on the tongue to bind the whole thing together. Fresh, zesty and utterly transparent. You can almost see the terroir in your glass.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Chardonnay
92

2010 Domaines Brocard Sélection, Chablis 1er Cru, Burgundy

( £14.99, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )

One of a series of brilliant Chablis to emerge from this domaine (or domaines) in 2010, this is a textbook example of what Chardonnay can produce in a great year in the Yonne. It’s tangy and fresh with lovely chalky minerality and purity of fruit. Deliciously drinkable.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Chardonnay
93

2010 Beaumont Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc, Bot River

( £16, 13%, The Wine Society )

Rightly awarded Five Stars in the recent edition of South Africa’s Platter Guide, this is a sublime Cape Chenin Blanc. It’s made in a Chenin meets Chardonnay style, with vanilla-scented barrel fermentation and some nice texture from the lees. The Chenin part provides fresh acidity, notes of apple and subtle tropical fruit and a fine finish. The wine should develop further over the next two or three years. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, South Africa, White, Chenin Blanc
91

2010 Au Bon Climat Chardonnay, Santa Barbara

( £18, 13.5%, Majestic )

Jim Clendennen makes some of the subtlest Chardonnays on the West Coast, and this understated effort is typical of his style, favouring subtle oak, fresh acidity and medium body. This is textured, aromatic and fresh, with some honey and cinnamon spice, a touch of oak, creamy lees and a zesty finish. I’d love to see more California Chardonnays like this. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, United States, White, Chardonnay
90

2011 Pieropan, Veneto, Soave

( £11, 12%, Liberty Wines )

Pieropan makes some of my favourite Soaves. Its single vineyard wines are sublime, but its larger, entry point blend is pretty good, too. This has a white pepper fragrance, with stony minerality on the palate and a fresh, almost saline finish. Good to see it under screwcap, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, White, Garganega
91

2009 David Nieuwoudt Ghost Corner Semillon, Elim

( £14.99 down to £11.24, 13%, Waitrose )

Why don’t the South Africans plant more Semillon in the Cape, given how successful the variety seems to be there. This one from the cool, ocean-influenced area of Elim is toasty, herbal and very refined, with lovely lime and citrus blossom flavours and the potential to age, Hunter Valley-style, in bottle. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, South Africa, White, Semillon