90

2009 Fattorie Romeo del Castello di Chiara Vigo Allegracore Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13%, Robin Woodhouse )

Chiara Vigo has markedly changed the style of her wines in the last two vintages. Whereas her 2008 was overtly oak-influenced, and rather hefty, the 2009 is much more feminine, and fruit-forward. Obviously youthful on the nose, the earthy red fruit is fresh and attractive, with great minerality. Salvo Foti has been the oenologist here, since Vigo’s first vintage in 2008, however from 2011, Vigo will be going it alone. Organically produced.

Drinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
90

2007 Benanti Rovitello Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( €13.50 Ex-cellar, 14%, Les Caves de Pyrene )

Vinicola Benanti is one of the most established quality producers in the Mount Etna region. Their Rovitello vineyards are on the Northern slopes, and the slightly cooler ripening conditions are reflected in this elegant, mineral and smoky Nerello Mascalese/Nerello Capuccio blend.

Drinking window: 2012-2020Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
90

NV Le Petit Roy, 11ème année, Domaine Jean Royer, Rhône Valley

( £12.25, 14.5, Lea & Sandeman )

French law means that this Vin de France can’t carry a vintage, but the words “11ème année” are a chunky hint. It’s basically a declassified Châteauneuf du Pape, made in a slightly (and I mean slightly) lighter style. Given the high prices of CNDP these days, this is a great way to taste a stylish, full-throated blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre at a more than reasonable price. Spicy and savoury with medium weight tannins, hints of rosemary and thyme and a core of sweet raspberry and bramble fruit. Perfect autumn drinking. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, Red, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah/Shiraz
93

2009 Nicosia Fondo Filara Nerello Mascalese IGT Sicilia, Etna, Sicily

( £9, 13%, The Wine Society )

This Nerello Mascalese won a gold medal in the Decanter 2012 awards, and it’s not hard to see why. The fruit is lithe and ripe, with an attractive smoky hint. There’s an overwhelming sense of freshness, vitality and elegance in this wine – and the Etna trademark minerality is present and correct, together with a lemon-candy note on the finish. At £8.50 this is one of Etna’s few bargains – It’s no surprise therefore that the Wine Society has sold out. Let’s hope they can secure some more soon.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Mascalese
92

2009 Vivera Martinella Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13.5%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )

A smoky, slightly vegetal aroma sets the stage for this terrific Etna Rosso. The red fruit is sweet and focused, and there’s a note of bitter cocoa, or cocoa nibs, that for me seems utterly typical of Nerello Mascalese. The tannins are refined and nicely balanced with the mineral finish. Organically produced.

Drinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
90

2010 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso “Calderara Sottana”, Etna, Sicily

( £22, 14%, Justerini & Brooks )

Marco de Grazia has two prized single vineyard sites in the Etna region – Calderara is situated near the Northerly town of Randazzo. A seriously structured wine, with rather dusty fruit, and spicy, bitter cocoa flavours. Unsurprisingly for Nerello Mascalese grown on black, volcanic soil, this has terrific minerality and lemon fresh acidity. Organically certified.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
94

2008 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso “Santo Spirito”, Etna, Sicily

( £22, 14%, Justerini & Brooks )

The Santo Spirito vineyards are situated between 650-700m above sea level. This Nerello Mascalese is bursting with blueberry/black cherry fruit – so much so that the spicy, smoky oak influence takes a back seat. Santo Spirito is a big wine though, and still a baby at four years old. Some might say it’s an international style, yet there’s that typical Salty Etna tang on the finish. Organically certified.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2020Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
92

2010 Giuliemi Quantico Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( £16, 13%, Outis )

Giuliemi’s Etna Rosso is scarcely less impressive than the Bianco. Raspberries, pepper and orange zest on the nose, driving acidity and soft yet structured tannins. Hint of brown sugar and lemon juice at the end. This is a super-fresh, pure expression of Nerellos Mascalese and Capuccio. Only 1,500 bottles a year produced. Organic/No sulphur.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2020Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
91

2009 Cottanera Fatagione IGT Sicilia, Etna, Sicily

( £16, 13.5%, AG Wines, Astrum )

Nerello Mascalese can suffer from a lack of “stuffing”, particularly as it ages. Cottanera have created a blend with 15% of international varieties (Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot), which definitely adds fruit and richness to this easy-going cuvee. The fruit is leathery, backed up by taut tannins, and there’s an enticing spicy, vegetal note to the nose. Barrique aging has been well judged to round out the palate, without dominating it.

Drinking window: 2012-2017Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Nerello Mascalese
90

2008 Cottanera Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13.5%, Astrum )

Etna Rosso DOC wines are never particularly cheap – the DOC regulations require hand harvesting, no irrigation, high altitude vineyards. That this Cottanera retails for only around a tenner is therefore miraculous. It is seriously structured, smoky, with a tiny hint of mocha and a bit of liquorice on the finish. A great introduction to Etna Rosso.

Drinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
91

2010 Graci Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13.5%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )

Alberto Graci has some very old plots of Nerello Mascalese growing between 600-1000m. This is his “basic” cuvee, made from younger fruit, although there’s nothing basic about the wine. The fruit is superbly fresh and vivid, with a slightly feral, herbaceous aroma. Etna Rosso often has a small percentage of Nerello Capuccio added, but this is unadorned Nerello Mascalese, and seems very focused for it, with black cherries, blueberries and redcurrants. Quite a “hot” finish, freshened up by the tannins.

Drinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Mascalese