Delicious Barolo, like delicious red Burgundy, is hard to find under £20, let alone at closer to £10, but Matteo Ascheri is brilliant at finding parcels of Italy’s most tempertmental grape that deliver flavour as well as value for money. This is a riper style (it was a warm vintage), but combines aromas of rose petal and red fruits with savoury, smoky tannins and a classically firm, even austere finish. A great introduction to the joys of Nebbiolo.
Food Match: Beef
2010 Viñalba Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Merlot, Mendoza
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14.5%, Sainsbury's )Hervé Joyaux has brought a French sensibility to Argentina, producing well balanced reds at appealing prices that have more than a hint of sophistication. This a pretty serious Bordeaux blend for less than £10, with sweet French oak, appealing violet and bramble aromas, good underlying strucuture and plush, layered tannins. Great value.
2011 Emma Zuccardi, Bonarda, Mendoza
( £19.75, 14.5%, Corkingwines.co.uk )Bonarda is regarded as something of a quaffing variety in Argentina, good for everyday drinking but not capable of anything more exciting. But hang on…this is an incredible red from Sebastián Zuccardi, which takes the variety to new heights. Brambly, savoury and intense, with plum and blueberry fruit, sweet oak and old vine concentration.
2011 Esprit de Puisseguin, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux
( £11.99, 13.5%, Waitrose )After the hoopla surrounding the 2009 and 2010 vintages in Bordeaux, 2011 was bound to be a bit of a let down, despite the fact that it produced plenty of decent wines. This is a case in point: a Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend that’s supple and forward (especially for the vintage), with attractive, grassy, refreshing flavours and a nip of tannin.
2011 Mas Las Cabes, Jean Gardiés, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon
( £9.50, 13.5%, Oddbins )Jean Gardiés is one of the leading names in the Roussillon, making balanced, herbal reds that have a true sense of place. Violets, thyme and rosemary combine appealingly here on the nose, backed up by flavours of raspberry and mulberry, medium weights tannins and a long finish.
2010 Paololeo, Fiore di Vigna Primitivo, Salentino, Puglia
( £13, 14.5%, Oddbins )Essence of Primitivo (aka Zinfandel) from the Salento Peninsula, this is rich, ripe and textured, but carries its 14.5% alcohol with ease. The focus here is on fruit rather than oak: plummy, spicy and sweet, with tobacco and Asian spices and enough acidity for balance. Needs robust food to show at its best.
2011 Trinity Hill Syrah by John Hancock, Hawkes Bay
( £13.50, 12.5%, Great Western Wine )This is only the “entry point” wine from Hawkes’ Bay producer, Trinity Hill, but what a cracker is it. The addition of a splash of Viognier gives a little more aroma, but it’s the Syrah that drives the wine and gives it focus. Violets, plums and cracked pepper on the nose and palate, with spicy tannins and oak adding extra complexity.
2009 Cillar De Silos, Ribera del Duero
( £15.50, 14%, Oddbins )Serious, concentrated, inky Tempranillo from Ribera with excellent structure and acidity. This is less oaky than some of this bodega’s releases and better for it in my view, with flavours of plum and spice, a touch of vanilla and a backbone of tannin. Should age well, too.
2011 Domaine Thymiopoulos, Jeunes Vignes de Xinomavro, Naoussa
( £12.50, 13.5%, Oddbins )Xinomvaro can be pretty toothsome stuff, even when the vines are young. But this combines the Nebbiolo-like tannnins and dryness with some sweet, supple red fruits. The overall effect is vey tasty indeed, with hints of rose petal, raspberry and wild strawberry set against a background of savoury, spicy tannins. Delicious at the price.
2010 Gut Oggau Joshuari, Burgenland
( POA, 13%, Dynamic Wines )Joshuari shows the slightly nervy side of Blaufränkisch, with rather tight but elegant berry fruit. Like all of Gut Oggau’s wines, it tastes terrifically fresh, with fruit pips and minerality on the finish.
2009 Gut Oggau Bertholdi, Burgenland
( POA, 13.3%, Dynamic Wines )For me this is the crowning glory of the Gut Oggau range. Single vineyard Blaufränkisch is left on its stems and stalks for 6 weeks, resulting in a structured, complex, yet impressively balanced wine. “Hot”, rubber-tyre character to the nose, very focused ripe yet elegant red fruit. The finish lasts and lasts, staying fresh and slightly saline to the very end.
2008 Bodegas Ochoa, Mil Gracias Graciano, Navarra
( £11.99, 13.5%, Hennings Wine Merchants )Graciano is more readily associated with neighbouring Rioja (and then only in small quantities) than Navarra, but this one from the youthful Adriana Ochoa is superb. It’s almost Italian in style, with marked acidity, some spice and a fair bit of tannin, but there’s some black cherry and bramble fruit to add sweetness and flesh to the bones.