The Swartland Revolution

by Tim Atkin
Every revolution needs a spark, a catalyst that changes things forever. It might not compare with the storming of the Bastille or the fall of the Berlin Wall, but the...
90

2010 The Olive Branch Grenache, McLaren Vale, South Australia

( £10.49 down to £7.86, 14.5%, Sainsbury's )

It’s surprisingly hard to find wines made solely from Grenache (such is its predigree as a blending grape), but McLaren Vale in South Australia is often a good bet. This has all the variety’s hallmarks – high alcohol, bags of red fruits and full, but smooth tannins – with well integrated vanilla oak and plenty of perfume and concentration. Very tasty. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, Red, Grenache
88

2011 Mas Las Cabes, Jean Gardiés, Côtes du Roussillon, Languedoc-Roussillon

( £9.50, 13.5%, Oddbins )

Jean Gardiés is one of the leading names in the Roussillon, making balanced, herbal reds that have a true sense of place. Violets, thyme and rosemary combine appealingly here on the nose, backed up by flavours of raspberry and mulberry, medium weights tannins and a long finish.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, Red, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz

Everyday value?

by Matt Walls
Lined up against the wall in my hallway, they stood quietly like forlorn commuters queuing for a bus. These were not bottles to make a taster salivate. Why didn’t I...
90

2011 Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache, Barossa Valley, South Australia

( £11.99, 14%, Ocado, Slurp, Tesco, The Co-operative )

Grenache should be all about sun-kissed drinkability, which is exactly what you get in the bottle here. It’s quite pale in colour (as Grenache can be), with notes of Asian spices, red fruits and deftly handled oak. Savoury, peppery and deceptively forward, this is a wine that develops with time in the glass.

Drinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, Red, Grenache
90

2010 Yalumba The Strapper Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro, Barossa Valley, South Australia

( £11.99, 14%, AC Gallie, Direct Wines, Noble Green Wines, Noel Young Wines )

Great name (I had to read it twice, too), a smart package and one hell of a glug for under £12. This is judiciously oaked, with the accent on soft, ripe, red fruits flavours. There’s a touch of sweet vanilla, a whisper of liquorice and supple, textured tannins on the palate. Essence of Barossa; essence of GSM.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, Red, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah/Shiraz
86

2010 Vega Ariana, Rioja

( £5.99, 14%, Waitrose )

Blended by Waitrose’s Spanish buyer, Nick Room, this is a tasty introduction to Spain’s best-loved wine style, a Tempranillo-based red with a hint of sweet, coconutty American oak, lots of soft red fruits, bright acidity and supple, palate-caressing tannins. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, Red, Graciano, Grenache, Tempranillo
88

2010 Château de Pennautier, Cabardès, Languedoc

( £5.99, 13.5%, Majestic )

A lipsmacking blend of five red grapes from one of the cooler, more Atlantic influenced  sub-regions of the Languedoc, this is light and refreshing in a Bordeaux meets the Midi sort of way, with some pepper spice, a bit of mint and oak and bags of aroma. Great value, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Red, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz
91

2007 Mas d'en Gil Coma Vella, Priorat

( £23.49, 15%, Waitrose )

A wine that certainly isn’t for the faint of heart (or palate, given its 15% alcohol), but this Catalan blend has style and compexity in abundance. Smoky and slightly sweet, with a hint of volatile acidity, plenty of tannin, subtle vanilla oak and aromas of wild herbs, all underpinned by palate-cleansing minerality from slate soils.  

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Spain, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz
91

2007 Domaine Saint Gayan, Gigondas, Rhône Valley

( £15.95, 15%, Yapp Brothers )

A wine that needs a cold day, snow on the ground and frost on the windowpanes, to show at its best, preferably with a stew bubbling on the stove. It’s a rich, compact, full-throated southern Rhône red with masses of savoury, peppery sweetness, warming alcohol and dense, sun-soaked flavours, with tapenade, clove and blackberry to the fore. Great now, but will age too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz