The top red wine from LaFou is an impressive blend of mostly Grenache with lesser amounts of Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, again showing judicious oak handling, refreshing minerality and ripe, but not over-ripe flavours of plum, chocolate and red fruits, with hints of tapenade and a brisk, refreshing finish. This is winemaking of a high order.
Price Range: £20-£30
2005 Majolini Franciacorta Electo Millesimato, Ome, Brescia
( £24.76, 13%, Bat & Bottle )Made entirely from Chardonnay, this Franciacorta fizz doesn’t show its age. It’s on the swee side, with notes of peach and apricot, small bubbles and a soft, caressing finish. A good Champagne substitute at a decent price.
2008 Domaine de Montcalmès, Coteaux du Languedoc, Languedoc Roussillon
( £20, 14%, The Wine Society )One of the best reds in the Languedoc (and at a very affordable price, too), this blend of Syrah with 20% each of Grenache and Mourvèdre also proves that the region’s top wines age gracefully. It’s sweet and savoury with fruit flavours that nod towards Pinot Noir as well as more Mediterranean varieties, but with a dusting of wild herbs and a touch more alcohol.
2011 Greywacke Chardonnay, Marlborough
( £21, 14.5%, Liberty Wines )Kevin Judd was better known at Cloudy Bay, just as he is at Greywacke, for his Sauvignon Blancs than his Chardonnay, but he’s always been a very skilful producer of the latter grape. This is arguably the best Chardonnay he’s made yet at his new venture, a minerally, citrus-tinged white with deftly interwoven oak and flavours of oatmeal and honey. Very classy.
2011 Craggy Range Single Vineyard Pinot Noir, Martinborough
( £22.50, 13.5%, Majestic )Craggy Range makes some of the best Pinot Noirs in New Zealand, without charging the high prices of some of its competitors. This is a typically savoury Martinborough Pinot Noir, with less colour than examples from Central Otago, but more complexity than the majority from Marlborough. Red cherry and pomegranate, toasty oak, medium-weight tannins and a long, refreshing finish. It should age nicely, too.
NV De St Gall Premier Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne
( £29 down to £21.75, 12.5%, Marks & Spencer )Well up to the very good standards of the Union Champagne co-op, this all Chardonnay fizz from Premier and Grand Cru villages is a very refined drop: fresh, focused and well structured with lowish dosage (residual sugar) and hints of brioche and citrus fruits. A Champagne that will age well, too, on past performance.
NV Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Garnatxa Sol i Serena, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 15.5% )Traditional, oxidative, tawny Port meets Oloroso Sherry style with marked sweetness and developed, rancio notes. Nutty, figgy fruit flavours with some crème caramel notes and aged complexity.
2012 Terra Remota, Caminito, Empordà
( €12, 13.5% )Blending Garnatxa and Syrah and aged for six months in oak, this is an ambitious rosado with good concentration and notes of red fruits and wild herbs. Subtle wild strawberry fruit, a nip of tannin and fresh acidity. Slightly pricey.
NV Pere Guardiola, Torre de Capmany Gran Reserva, Emporda, Empordà
( €15, 15% )Mature, concentrated, figgy fortified style made in a tawny, barrel-aged style. The volatility is quite marked here, but it’s a complex, aged style with nutty, almond and rancio flavours and impressive, Christmas cake complexity
2008 Vinícola del Nordest, Anubis Reserva, Empordà, Empordà
( €14, 15% )A high-toned blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with plenty of structure and tannin. Not the subtlest wine in the world, with flavours that are starting to turn a little pruney. Pricey, too.
2012 Terra Remota, Tan Natural Tempranillo, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 13% )Unusually for Empordà (uniquely?) this is a varietal, organically-farmed Tempranillo with minimal sulphur. It’s the cheapest red from the bodega: vibrant and juicy, with plum and raspberry fruit and good concentration.
2008 Castillo Perelada , 5 Fincas, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 14% )A blend of Garnatxa, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that flirts with high volatile acidity and some green notes but still manages to work. Serious tannins, slightly dry, with capsicum and blackcurrant flavours.