97

1977 D'Oliveiras Reserva Terrantez, Madeira

( £55 down to £41.25, 20%, Waitrose )

Bottled in 2008 (which means it spent more than 30 years in cask), this is the sort of wine that everyone should drink once in their life. It has the classic green tinge of mature Madeira, as well as the marked acidity of the best examples. Savoury, complex and fine, this has a classic cheesy undertone, with mature, smoky, incense-like aromas and flavours. Yes, it’s expensive, but at 25% off, now is the time to buy it. Or offer it as a Christmas present. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-30Similar Wines: £50-£100, 96-100, Other Countries, Fortified, Terrantez
89

2011 Carmagnole Prestige, Caramany, Languedoc-Roussillon

( £9.99, 14%, Marks & Spencer )

Caramany is the westernmost of the Côtes du Roussillon’s top appellations. Its altitude and comparatively cool conditions, allied to granite and quartz soils, produce wines of remarkable freshness and poise, just like this one. Cracked pepper and spice, with red fruits and bright acidity. The old vine Carignan gives the wine some savoury ballast. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, Red, Carignan, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz
92

2010 Chapoutier Crozes-Hermitage, Les Meysonniers, Rhône Valley

( £15.99 down to £11.99, 13%, Sainsbury's )

The enfant terrible of the Rhône is at the top of his form right now, even on wines from lesser appellations, such as Crozes-Hermitage. This has classic Syrah aromas of tapenade and smoked meat, allied to freshness, brightness and length. It’s organic, its unoaked and it’s truly delicious. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Syrah/Shiraz
90

2005 La Capannuccia Chianti Rufina, Tuscany

( £14.99 down to £11.24, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )

Always good to see an Italian wine with some bottle age on a supermarket shelf, especially when it’s as good as this Sangiovese-based Tuscan red. It’s made in a modernised traditional style, with lovely floral, tealeafy flavours, fresh acidity and savoury, complex tannins. Drink it with a good winter stew and it will taste even better. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, Red, Sangiovese
91

2010 Kanonkop Kadette, Stellenbosch

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )

This is only the baby wine from this historic Cape winery (hence Kadette) but it’s still very impressive. A blend of mostly Pinotage and Cabernet Sauvignon with splashes of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, it’s elegant and poised with polished tannins, seamless integration between the varieties and lots of potential. Long and well balanced, this carries its 14% alcohol with effortless grace. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-18Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, South Africa, Red, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Pinotage
92

2009 Mayu Syrah Reserva, Elquí Valley

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )

The coastal region of Elquí, close to the edge of the Atacama desert, is one of the most exciting in the world. And the wines from this Italian-influenced winery are leading the way. This has the cool climate pepperiness of Syrah (the Pacific is not far away) with notes of raspberry, tomato leaf and clove spice. Close your eyes and you could be drinking something very grand from the Rhône Valley. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Chile, Red, Syrah/Shiraz
90

2011 Taste the Difference Pouilly-Fumé, Loire Valley

( £11.99 down to £8.99, 13%, Sainsbury's )

Made by the brilliant André Figeat, this is a winner every year at JS, even in tricky vintages like 2011. Focused, nettley and taut, this is bright and refreshing with notes of minerals, dill, cut grass and citrus fruit. Long and complex on the palate, this is at its best with goat’s cheese. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, White, Sauvignon Blanc
91

2012 Villa Maria Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc, Awatere Valley, Marlborough

( £13.99 down to £7.86, 13%, Sainsbury's )

The cooler Awatere Valley is producing someof Marlborough’s most distinctive Sauvignons at the moment, lighter and fresher in style than those of the neighbouring Wairau Valley. This is a very elgant Kiwi number, which wouldn’t look out of place in the Loire, with tangy elderflower and citrsu fruit notes and a fine, stony finish. Very poised, very self-assured. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, White, Sauvignon Blanc
92

2006 Taste the Difference Hunter Valley Semillon

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 10.5%, Sainsbury's )

Thsi has been on the shelves for a while at JS, which suggests that (baffling though it is to me) it isn’t selling. This is the weekend to rectify that, because it’s an amazing wine at the price. Light-bodied, in classic Hunter style, with notes of toast and lemon sherbet and a tangy finish from early picked grapes. Essence of the Hunter. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-18Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Australia, White, Semillon
90

2007 Benanti Rovitello Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( €13.50 Ex-cellar, 14%, Les Caves de Pyrene )

Vinicola Benanti is one of the most established quality producers in the Mount Etna region. Their Rovitello vineyards are on the Northern slopes, and the slightly cooler ripening conditions are reflected in this elegant, mineral and smoky Nerello Mascalese/Nerello Capuccio blend.

Drinking window: 2012-2020Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
90

2010 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso “Calderara Sottana”, Etna, Sicily

( £22, 14%, Justerini & Brooks )

Marco de Grazia has two prized single vineyard sites in the Etna region – Calderara is situated near the Northerly town of Randazzo. A seriously structured wine, with rather dusty fruit, and spicy, bitter cocoa flavours. Unsurprisingly for Nerello Mascalese grown on black, volcanic soil, this has terrific minerality and lemon fresh acidity. Organically certified.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese