88

2009 Château de la Tour Vieilles Vignes, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

A mid ruby wine showing a slight cloudiness when I tasted it. This old vine cuvée is marked by smoky, vanilla oak on the nose, with meaty aromas that owe as much to Syrah as they do to Pinot Noir. Very woody on the palate too, with a chunky extracted finish. This may soften over time, but I think the oak will continue to dominate the fruit. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, France, Red, Pinot Noir
94

2009 Bertagna, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Mid ruby/red with a pinkish rim. There’s some evidence of whole bunch fermetnation on the nose and palate here – a slight greenness that adds some texture and structure. The wine is quite extracted, but is clearly built for the longer haul, with notes of vanilla, fresh earth and raspberry and summer pudding fruit. 

Drinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
86

2009 La Reine Pédauque, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Mid ruby with a pinkish rim. Youthfaul and bright on the nose, albeit witn an overlay of oak. On the palate the wine is quite extracted with marked acidity and not enough fruit to compensate. A wine that is closer to a 2008 than 2009 in style, with firm, dry tannins and rather thin fruit flavours. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, France, Red, Pinot Noir
86

2009 Chantal Lescure, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Deep ruby, youthful, garnet coloured at the rim. Dense, compact, with some minty reduction. A little bitter with high acidity, perhaps suffering from bottle shock? High acid and tannin, not very complex. Lacks what should be the redeeming feature of the vintage: namely, fruit. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, France, Red, Pinot Noir
90

2011 Commanderie de Peyrassol Rosé, Côtes de Provence

( £9.99, 12.5%, Majestic )

We may still be waiting for summer here in rain-sodden Blighty, but why not pretend you’re on the Côte d’Azur with a bottle of this slinky, floral, pale pink blend of Syrah and Grenache. It’s delicate and very subtle with notes of rosehip and raspberry, bright, sappy acidity and a refreshing finish. Great as an aperitif, even better with salad, fish or chicken dishes. Essence of southern France. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, Rose, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Other Reds, Syrah/Shiraz

Alsace and the meaning of tradition

by Tim Atkin
The wine world thrives on novelty: new vintages, new flavours, new producers. In some ways, this is both understandable and necessary. Creating a bit of sizzle around a category that,...

Redefining fine wine

by Tim Atkin
The wine world is often celebrated for its breadth and diversity – all those grape varieties, countries, regions and sub-regions – but there are times when it feels like a...
89

2010 Tesco Finest Picpoul de Pinet, Languedoc

( £7.29, 12.5%, Tesco )

On offer from April 2nd to the 30th (the price comes down to a very attractive £5.79), this is a textbook example of the Languedoc’s best seafood white. Citrus and white pepper on the nose, with a hint of white peach, this is zesty, medium-bodied and unoaked, with a fresh, tangy finish. Try it with a plate of oysters or mussels. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2013Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, France, Red, Other Whites
91

2010 Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône Villages, Domaine de la Meynarde

( £7.99, 13.5%, Marks & Spencer )

I hope you’ll forgive me for choosing another 2010 Rhône red as my wine of the week, but they are just so delicious. This unoaked blend of mostly Grenache with 25% Syrah, 10% Carignan amd 10% Mourvèdre is quintessential stuff: ripe, but still refreshing with sweet plums and red fruits on the palate backed up by clove and pepper spice. I could drink a bottle of this in one sitting, especially with a good stew or barbecued ribs. 

BuySimilar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, France, Red, Grenache, Other Reds, Syrah/Shiraz