93

2007 Mas Romeu Finca Malesa, Empordà

( E18, 14%, El Celler Petit )

Thia is the personal project of Delfi Sanahuja, who makes the wine at nearby Castillo de Perelada. It’s an ambitious modern style with quite a bit of oak, but real freshness, vivacity and length. Minerally, zesty and well balanced with notes of spice, wild herbs, plum and red cherry fruit and medium weight tannins. Very stylish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Red, Grenache, Merlot
89

2008 Can Sais Expressio, Empordà

( E35, 15%, El Celler Petit )

The price is certainly ambitious, but it’s matched by the scarcity (only 845 bottles made) and the very ow yields (less than half a kilo per vine). Marta Arenas’s pure Grenache is biodynamic and made without added sulphur. It’s a wild, complex wine with a faintly pruney note, sweet underlying red fruits and savoury tannins. It’s quite fragile, with a nod towards Pinot Noir, and a nip of volatility on the finish. Drink up as the tannnins are starting to dry on the finish. 

BuyDrinking window: NowSimilar Wines: £30-£50, 86-90, Spain, Red, Grenache
93

2008 Sota els Angels Desea, Empordà

( E18, 13%, El Celler Petit )

This is only the “entry point” wine from this new winery, but it still costs E18. It’s a biodynamic blend of Syrah, Merlot and Samsó, produced in a ripe, supple, fruit-packed style with lots of sweet, spicy blackberry fruit, aromas of incense and fresh herbs, subtle oak and a seamless integration of the three varieties. It’s lighter and fresher than it appears on the nose. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Red, Carignan, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz
90

2011 Gelamà Macabeu, Empordà

( E6, 13.5%, El Celler Petit )

The 20% oak ageing is quite prominent on the nose and palate here, reminding me of a white Rioja (same grape, but more concentration in Empordà), but there’s enough texture and concentration for it to integrate over time. Another young producer who has rejuvenated old family vines to fashion something with real personality: minerality, wild herbs and some vanilla sweetness. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, White, Macabeo
89

2011 Oliver Conti Treyu, Empordà

( E7, 12.5%, El Celler Petit )

It’s easy to judge the white wines from Oliver Conti too young, even this unoaked cuvée of Macebeu and Gewürztraminer. This combines perfume, spice, fresh acidity and a touch of grapeskin bitterness on the palate, underpinned by some creamy, lees-derived fatness. It’s an unusual wine, with the Gewürz adding some ginger spice to the Macabeu. Try cellaring it. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, White, Gewürztraminer, Macabeo
92

2011 Clos d'Agon Amic, Empordà

( E14, 13%, El Celler Petit )

Made by Peter Sisseck of Pingus in Ribera del Duero fame, this is a pure Garnatxa Blanca that justifies its growing reputation. This is a value for money partner to his more grown up Clos d’Agon Catalunya wines. Focused, intense, unoaked and very fresh, this chalky, almost Burgundian white is the perfect foil for the local Palamos seafood. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
94

2010 Terra Remota Caminante, Empordà

( E15, 14%, El Celler Petit )

One of the most exciting white wines in Empordà, made by French couple Marc and Emma Bournazeau from a blend of Garnatxa Blanca, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. Deftly oaked, beautifully defined, with the three grapes stylishly intertwined. Honeysuckle, some spice, a dash of thyme and pear and long, granite-derived minerality. Right up there with some of the best white wines in Spain. An estate to watch. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, White
93

2010 Marti Fabra Masia Carreras Blanc, Empordà

( E13, 14.5%, El Celler Petit )

There’s clearly something special about the village of San Clement Sescebes (and not just as the place where lots of Spaniards did their military service) as it’s home to two of the region’s best producers (Terra Remota being the other one). This highly unusual blend of Garnatxa Blanca, Picapoll and Samsó (aka Carignan) is a big, umami-rich white with a dry finish, some tannin on the palate and masses of grip, density and flavour. A very serious bottle of white. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Carignan, Grenache Blanc, Palomino Fino, Picpoul
90

2011 Mas Llunes Nívia, Empordà

( E8, 13.5%, El Celler Petit )

A wine that is a little too marked by oak at the moment, but has good underlying texture and concentration. Floral, saline and concentrated with toasty oak and good minerality. Needs a year or two in bottle, but I love the notes of fennel and wild rosemary and the strucuture and muscularity of the finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
92

2011 Vinyes dels Aspres, Empordà

( E13, 14.5%, El Celler Petit )

Sourced from the frontier village of Cantallops, this is a rich, powerful, wild wine that is almost unruly on the nose and palate. Even for a young wine, this is starting to show secondary notes of honey and marzipan, but there’s massive concentration and acidity to back it up. A slow burner of a wine, very dense, minerally and herbal with a salty, food welcoming finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 96-100, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc