Everyday value?

by Matt Walls
Lined up against the wall in my hallway, they stood quietly like forlorn commuters queuing for a bus. These were not bottles to make a taster salivate. Why didn’t I...
90

2011 Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache, Barossa Valley, South Australia

( £11.99, 14%, Ocado, Slurp, Tesco, The Co-operative )

Grenache should be all about sun-kissed drinkability, which is exactly what you get in the bottle here. It’s quite pale in colour (as Grenache can be), with notes of Asian spices, red fruits and deftly handled oak. Savoury, peppery and deceptively forward, this is a wine that develops with time in the glass.

Drinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, Red, Grenache
90

2010 Yalumba The Strapper Grenache/Shiraz/Mataro, Barossa Valley, South Australia

( £11.99, 14%, AC Gallie, Direct Wines, Noble Green Wines, Noel Young Wines )

Great name (I had to read it twice, too), a smart package and one hell of a glug for under £12. This is judiciously oaked, with the accent on soft, ripe, red fruits flavours. There’s a touch of sweet vanilla, a whisper of liquorice and supple, textured tannins on the palate. Essence of Barossa; essence of GSM.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, Red, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah/Shiraz
86

2010 Vega Ariana, Rioja

( £5.99, 14%, Waitrose )

Blended by Waitrose’s Spanish buyer, Nick Room, this is a tasty introduction to Spain’s best-loved wine style, a Tempranillo-based red with a hint of sweet, coconutty American oak, lots of soft red fruits, bright acidity and supple, palate-caressing tannins. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, Red, Graciano, Grenache, Tempranillo
91

2007 Mas d'en Gil Coma Vella, Priorat

( £23.49, 15%, Waitrose )

A wine that certainly isn’t for the faint of heart (or palate, given its 15% alcohol), but this Catalan blend has style and compexity in abundance. Smoky and slightly sweet, with a hint of volatile acidity, plenty of tannin, subtle vanilla oak and aromas of wild herbs, all underpinned by palate-cleansing minerality from slate soils.  

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Spain, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz
91

2007 Domaine Saint Gayan, Gigondas, Rhône Valley

( £15.95, 15%, Yapp Brothers )

A wine that needs a cold day, snow on the ground and frost on the windowpanes, to show at its best, preferably with a stew bubbling on the stove. It’s a rich, compact, full-throated southern Rhône red with masses of savoury, peppery sweetness, warming alcohol and dense, sun-soaked flavours, with tapenade, clove and blackberry to the fore. Great now, but will age too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz
88

2010 Château de Pennautier, Cabardès, Languedoc

( £5.99, 13.5%, Majestic )

A lipsmacking blend of five red grapes from one of the cooler, more Atlantic influenced  sub-regions of the Languedoc, this is light and refreshing in a Bordeaux meets the Midi sort of way, with some pepper spice, a bit of mint and oak and bags of aroma. Great value, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Red, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Grenache, Merlot, Syrah/Shiraz
89

2007 Ogier, Clos de l'Oratoire des Papes, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône

( £25, 15%, Majestic )

Too many UK retailers are already on the 2009 and even 2010 vintage of CNDP, so it’s good to taste a wine that, while still young, is showing some bottle maturity. This is rich and deeply coloured with dark berry fruits, a hint of clove and a spicy, meaty finish.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-18Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, France, Red, Cinsault, Grenache, Mourvèdre
90

2009 Vignobles Jeanjean, Les Hauts de Castelmaure, Corbières, Languedoc-Roussillon

( £11.99, 14%, Majestic )

Heady, aromatic, garrigue-saturated red blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah, made in a modern style with some carbonic maceration and French oak. Richly aromaitc, with lots of fresh herbs and a sweet, spicy succulence. Needs a barbecue to show at its best.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, Red, Carignan, Grenache
87

2011 Simply Garnacha, Campo de Borja

( £4.59, 13.5%, Tesco )

It’s not easy to find really good glugging reds under £5 any more, but the Campo de Borja region in northern Spain would be my first port of call. This unoaked example from Bodegas Borsao is juicy, brambly and full of raspberry and redcurrant fruit. Soft and supple: pure, uncomplicated pleasure.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, Spain, Red, Grenache
94

2010 Domaine du Grapillon d'Or, Gigondas, Rhône Valley

( £18.99 down to £14.24, 14.5%, Waitrose )

This was one of the very best wines at the Waitrose tasting, a very smart southern Rhône red based on Grenache with 20% Syrah for added backbone. It’s a ripe wine, with 14.5% alcohol, but it’s subtle and elegant, too, reflecting the balance of the 2010 vintage. Supple and sweet, with notes of wild herbs, red fruits, medium tannins and a nuanced, finely crafted finish. This outclasses a lot of Châteauneuf-du-Papes. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, Red, Grenache, Syrah/Shiraz