90

NV Jansz, Premium Non Vintage Cuvée, Tasmania

( £15.75, 12.5% )

Jansz’s “ordinary” cuvée is pretty good, so you’d expect a premium cuvée to be even better. And, guess what, you won’t be disappointed. This is a little richer and toastier than the regular release, with notes of toast and cream and a supple cushion of bubbles. Appealingly dry. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Australia, Sparkling
92

NV Tio Pepe, Fino En Rama, Jerez

( £13, 15% )

If you love Fino Sherry – and who doesn’t? – this is about as good as it gets: an unfined, unfiltered fortified that was bottled in April when the flor yeast is at its thickest on the surface of the wine, giving it that bready, savoury complexity. More deeply coloured than the regular Tio Pepe, this is a salty, tangy delight that’s absolutely brilliant with a plate of anchovies or almonds. Essence of Andalusia.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Fortified, Palomino Fino
94

Greywacke Wild Sauvignon, Marlborough

( £17.49, 14%, Excel Wines )

Kevin Judd is a master of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. As its name suggests, this is his wild yeast-fermented expression of the grape, along the lines of Cloudy Bay’s Te Koko. It’s a stunning wine, combining notes of white Burgundy, white Bordeaux and Kiwi fruit exuberance. The older oak is very subtle, the savoury, grapefruity, yeasty flavours perfectly judged. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, New Zealand, White, Sauvignon Blanc
88

2011 Esprit de Puisseguin, Puisseguin Saint-Emilion, Bordeaux

( £11.99, 13.5%, Waitrose )

After the hoopla surrounding the 2009 and 2010 vintages in Bordeaux, 2011 was bound to be a bit of a let down, despite the fact that it produced plenty of decent wines. This is a case in point: a Merlot/Cabernet Franc blend that’s supple and forward (especially for the vintage), with attractive, grassy, refreshing flavours and a nip of tannin.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, Red
89

2012 Cristina Ascheri, Arneis, Langhe, Piedmont

( £13.95, 13.5%, Great Western Wine )

Arneis is Piedmont’s best white grape in my opinion, especially when it offers the sort of value and fruit concentration on show here from Ascheri in Bra. Refeshing and zesty, with a slight spritz, but with plenty of weight and concentration behind, with pear and angelica spice and a deliciously bitter twist.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, White, Arneis
90

2011 Trinity Hill Syrah by John Hancock, Hawkes Bay

( £13.50, 12.5%, Great Western Wine )

This is only the “entry point” wine from Hawkes’ Bay producer, Trinity Hill, but what a cracker is it. The addition of a splash of Viognier gives a little more aroma, but it’s the Syrah that drives the wine and gives it focus. Violets, plums and cracked pepper on the nose and palate, with spicy tannins and oak adding extra complexity.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, New Zealand, Red, Syrah/Shiraz
91

2009 Cillar De Silos, Ribera del Duero

( £15.50, 14%, Oddbins )

Serious, concentrated, inky Tempranillo from Ribera with excellent structure and acidity. This is less oaky than some of this bodega’s releases and better for it in my view, with flavours of plum and spice, a touch of vanilla and a backbone of tannin. Should age well, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Red, Tempranillo
90

2011 Domaine Thymiopoulos, Jeunes Vignes de Xinomavro, Naoussa

( £12.50, 13.5%, Oddbins )

Xinomvaro can be pretty toothsome stuff, even when the vines are young. But this combines the Nebbiolo-like tannnins and dryness with some sweet, supple red fruits. The overall effect is vey tasty indeed, with hints of rose petal, raspberry and wild strawberry set against a background of savoury, spicy tannins. Delicious at the price.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Greece, Red, Xinomavro
89

2009 Verget Saint Véran Grand Elevage, Mâconnais, Burgundy

( £17, 13%, Oddbins )

White Burgundies from the 2009 vintage don’t lack opulence, but the best ones have freshness and bite, too. This is certainly on the ripe and honeyed side, but it has enough freshness for balance, with notes of vanilla and nutmeg spice, pear and citrus fruit and an appealingly honeyed texture. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, France, White, Chardonnay