The Vauxhall Paulée
by John Atkinson MW
The Jesuit promise to take the child and return the man holds loosely for wine. Making the right calls during the formative stages of production should help deliver successful outcomes....
Country: France
2023 Paul Mas Côté Mas Blanc, Languedoc
( £8.99, 13%, Majestic )Jean-Claude Mas is one of the most creative winemakers in France. As the man behind the Arrogant Frog brand, he also knows how to enjoy a joke at his own expense. This is a superb unwooded Languedoc blend of Grenache Blanc, 30% Vermentino, 25% Marsanne and 5% Viognier that has lots of zip and energy, flavours of kiwi fruit, apricot and pink grapefruit and a refreshing, tapering finish.
Reasons To Be Cheerful
by Andy Neather
This is never a particularly joyful month for the wine industry. Nobody is ever buying much just after Christmas. And these days, the festival of self-denying piousness that is Dry...
A Different Path
by Margaret Rand
Did any grower ever say, ‘I’m looking for a really cold, wet site – Yorkshire, maybe, or Derbyshire – so I can plant Ortega and Huxelrebe and Rondo’? Equally, how...
2022 Famille Cordier Saint-Véran En Faux, Burgundy
( £25, 13.5% )White Burgundy prices have spiralled in recent years, but there are parts of the region – Chablis, the Côte Chalonnaise and the Mâconnais – that still deliver impressive value for money. Christophe Cordier makes fantastic Mâconnais Chardonnays such as this one that combine richness and texture with freshness and balance. This Saint-Véran offers masses off flavour and intensity on the palate, with notes of honey, stone fruit and cream supported by stony minerality and a touch of oak spice. Delicious.
2019 Plaimont Producteurs Le Faîte Blanc Grand Vin, Saint Mont, Gascony
( £22.50, 14%, Corney & Barrow )It would be entirely fair to say that the Gers department in south-west France is not one of the country’s most celebrated wine regions, but the Saint-Mont appellation is producing some remarkable whites from local grapes such as Petit Courbu and Petit and Gros Manseng. This delicious, judiciously aged blend is every bit as good as more expensive white Bordeaux, with lots of zip and acidity, flavours of pink grapefruit, quince and white peach and a touch of oak spice.
Making A Shift
by Charlie Leary
Haut-Brion holds a hallowed place not only in today’s luxury wine market and wine history but also for the people who study terroir identity, authenticity, and, of course, branding. Its...
2023 Domaine de la Tourmaline Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley
( £9.99, 12.5%, Majestic )Is Muscadet, like Beaujolais Nouveau, experiencing a revival in fortunes? Sometimes considered a neutral grape variety, Melon de Bourgogne can achieve impressive things in the right hands. The Gadais family source this one from 30-year-old vines and the concentration is evident on the palate. Wet stone, pear, green apple and lemon butter flavours combine beautifully on the palate here, with some extra weight from eight months’ ageing on the wine’s post-fermentation lees.
Let Me Count The Ways
by Harry Eyres
Once, many moons ago, I was in a bar in Sanlúcar de Barrameda with my friends Tim and Rocío Holt. Possibly I had imbibed one too many copitas of Manzanilla,...
2021 Emmanuel Durand Les Trois Chênes Crozes-Hermitage, Rhône Valley
( £22, 13%, Berry Brothers & Rudd )The Rhône Valley still offers great value for money if you know where to look. This is the kind of wine that belies the line that Crozes is the “poor man’s Hermitage”. It’s an intensely scented cool climate Syrah from an impressive recent vintage, with classic liquorice and white pepper aromas, textured, glossy tannins, subtle wood spices and a layers of blackberry and fennel.
The Appeal Of Youth
by Margaret Rand
Of the many irritating things my parents used to say on repeat, the one that springs most to mind now is ‘youth is wasted on the young’. (A close second...
2021 Domaine du Bel Air Jour de Soif, Bourgueil, Loire Valley
( £22, 13%, Berry Brothers & Rudd )Loire Valley Cabernet Francs are some of my favourite reds in the world, with just the right combination of freshness, perfume and acidity. This unwooded example from Bourgueil, an appellation which can often be among the earthier expressions of the variety, is wonderfully sappy and thirst-quenching, with aromas of violets and cut grass, bags of crunchy acidity and a palate of black cherry and raspberry framed by graceful tannins.