92

2010 Biondi Cisterna Fuori IGT Sicilia, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13.5%, Vino Passione )

Ciro Biondi’s new single vineyard Etna Rosso, bottled as an IGT due to a mix-up with this year’s paperwork, is still a baby – but already the attractive, lifted red fruit is approachable, and the tannins are muscular but refined. There’s a gorgeous lemon-candy/salty finish, along with slightly nervy acidity that should ensure a bright future. One to cellar for a couple of years, at least.

Drinking window: 2014-2024Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
94

2009 Scilio Alta Quota Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 14%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )

Salvatore Scilio has one of the few organically certified estates on Mount Etna, and Alta Quota is his premium expression of Nerello Mascalese. The balance between acidity and structure is impressive, and the muscular, ripe fruit has a herby, rosemary scent running through it. Superbly elegant, and feels like one for the long haul.

Drinking window: 2012-2022Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Mascalese
90

2009 Fattorie Romeo del Castello di Chiara Vigo Allegracore Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13%, Robin Woodhouse )

Chiara Vigo has markedly changed the style of her wines in the last two vintages. Whereas her 2008 was overtly oak-influenced, and rather hefty, the 2009 is much more feminine, and fruit-forward. Obviously youthful on the nose, the earthy red fruit is fresh and attractive, with great minerality. Salvo Foti has been the oenologist here, since Vigo’s first vintage in 2008, however from 2011, Vigo will be going it alone. Organically produced.

Drinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
90

2007 Benanti Rovitello Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( €13.50 Ex-cellar, 14%, Les Caves de Pyrene )

Vinicola Benanti is one of the most established quality producers in the Mount Etna region. Their Rovitello vineyards are on the Northern slopes, and the slightly cooler ripening conditions are reflected in this elegant, mineral and smoky Nerello Mascalese/Nerello Capuccio blend.

Drinking window: 2012-2020Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
91

2008 Benanti Pietramarina Etna Bianco Superiore, Etna, Sicily

( €16.50 Ex-cellar, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene )

This wine has the kind of taut, fresh yet delicate feel that I associate with high altitude – and Etna Bianco Superiore wines can only be made in the commune of Milo, with Carricante grown between 900-1100m above sea level. This is superior by name, and by nature. Scents of white flowers and acacia lead to generous, rather sauvignon-like fruit. The finish is mineral and flinty with an attractive bitterness that makes it very thirst quenching and rather morish.

Drinking window: 2012-2015Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Italy, White, Carricante
90

2010 Vivera Salisere Etna Bianco, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )

Carricante made in quite a modern style, with a sauvignon-like nose of gooseberries and grapefruit, a hint of quince, and dry, salty tang. This wine spent 10 months on the lees, which has given it attractive weight, but not at the expensive of the freshness or the fruit. Organically produced.

Drinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Italy, White
92

2009 Vivera Martinella Etna Rosso, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 13.5%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )

A smoky, slightly vegetal aroma sets the stage for this terrific Etna Rosso. The red fruit is sweet and focused, and there’s a note of bitter cocoa, or cocoa nibs, that for me seems utterly typical of Nerello Mascalese. The tannins are refined and nicely balanced with the mineral finish. Organically produced.

Drinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese
93

2009 Nicosia Fondo Filara Nerello Mascalese IGT Sicilia, Etna, Sicily

( £9, 13%, The Wine Society )

This Nerello Mascalese won a gold medal in the Decanter 2012 awards, and it’s not hard to see why. The fruit is lithe and ripe, with an attractive smoky hint. There’s an overwhelming sense of freshness, vitality and elegance in this wine – and the Etna trademark minerality is present and correct, together with a lemon-candy note on the finish. At £8.50 this is one of Etna’s few bargains – It’s no surprise therefore that the Wine Society has sold out. Let’s hope they can secure some more soon.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £5-£10, 91-95, Italy, Red, Nerello Mascalese
93

2010 Cantine Russo Mon Pit Methodo Classico Spumante Brut Rosé, Etna, Sicily

( N/A, 12.5%, N/A UK (Available from the winery) )

Nerello Mascalese is versatile enough to make terrific sparklers – like this bready, toasty rosé spumante. The fruit is spicy, and rather savoury, with an intriguing nose that reminded me of red onions (it wasn’t oxidised, I should hasten to add). The mousse is soft but persistent. Bone dry, refined and complex – a serious Rosé, Bravo!

Drinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Italy, Sparkling, Nerello Mascalese
90

2010 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso “Calderara Sottana”, Etna, Sicily

( £22, 14%, Justerini & Brooks )

Marco de Grazia has two prized single vineyard sites in the Etna region – Calderara is situated near the Northerly town of Randazzo. A seriously structured wine, with rather dusty fruit, and spicy, bitter cocoa flavours. Unsurprisingly for Nerello Mascalese grown on black, volcanic soil, this has terrific minerality and lemon fresh acidity. Organically certified.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Italy, Red, Nerello Capuccio, Nerello Mascalese