It’s a real pleasure to see such impressive wines emerging from Bulgaria, a country that has lost its way over the last 20 years, but is now back on the right path. This wine is the flag bearer of the new wave. It’s a blend of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, made by a group of owners that includes Stephan von Neipperg of Château Canon La Gaffelière, and it has a smooth, international feel to it. Minty, fruit sweet and stylishly oaked, it combines flavours of cassis, fruitcake and red berries with a sheen of vanilla oak. Good now, but will age for another five years with ease.
Red Varietal: Merlot
2013 Oller del Mas, Petit Bernat, Pla de Bages
( £9, 14% )A great value blend of Picapoll Negre, Syrah, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot made in an easy drinking style, with a touch of oak for added structure and complexity. Supple, attractive, raspberry and red cherry fruit with smooth tannins and balancing acidity. A really good quaffing red.
2010 Château Clément-Pichon, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux
( £12.50, 14%, Fine + Rare )A cru bourgeois that punches well above its weight, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot typifies the best feautures of the 2010 vintage: freshness and concentration of flavour. It’s ripe, yet well balanced with flavours of cassis and plum, a hint of damson and fine, structured tannins. Needs time.
2009 Château Sénéjac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux
( £13.99, 13.5%, The Co-operative )On a deal for the next week, before it reverts to £16.99 after Christmas, this is a well-balanced, aromatic claret that is more focused and refined than many 2009s, but is still pretty forward and full of flavour: with subtle oak, riple plum and blueberry fruit and medium weight tannins. Very drinkable.
2010 La Chapelle de Potensac, Médoc
( £19.99 downto £14.99, 13.5%, Marks & Spencer )Made by the same team that produces the world famous St Julien second growth, Château Léoville-Las-Cases, this is a Médoc that really punches above its supposedly lightweight status. It’s a Merlot-dominated blend with 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot for company. Elegant and well balanced, it shows the poise that is typical of the best 2010s, with subtle oak, sweet raspberry and cassis fruit and well-defined tannins.
2008 Mas Romeu, Finca Malesa, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €16, 15% )Made by Delfi ?, Perelada’s head winemaker, on a consultancy basis, this cuvée of Grenache and Merlot is savoury and sweet, with warming alcohol and some attractive green pepper and balsamic notes.
2010 Can Sais, Selecció, Baix Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €15, 15% )A Merlot, Grenache and Tempranillo blend showing some reduction and slightly baked, extracted aromas and flavours. A little chewy and dry, this is a wine that needs more fruit sweetness for balance.
2006 Castillo Perelada, Gran Claustro, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €30, 14% )Using Cabernet, Merlot, Grenache and Cariñena, this is a classic Emporda blend, albeit in a modern style with plenty of new oak. Deeply coloured, concentrated and oaky with cassis and blackberry fruit, firmish tannins and a chewy finish.
2012 Cooperatiu agricola Gariguella, Puntils, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €4, 13.5% )Combining Tempranillo, Garnatxa and Merlot, this is a grassy, strawberry-scented red with refreshing acidity. It’s a little developed perhaps, but at €4 who’s complaining?
2012 Cooperatiu Agricola Garriguella, Gerisena Selecció, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €11, 145% )Vibrant, youthful, aromatic blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Grenache with the emphasis on juicy fruit flavours of red cherry and plum rather than oak. The wine carries its alcohol with ease, thanks to the fresh acidity here.
2012 Can Sais, Migjorn, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €8, 14% )Using organic and biodynamic methods, Marta Arenas makes appealingly refreshing, understated wines. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and other local varieties is grassy and cassis-like with firmish tannins.
2009 Maset Plana, A21, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €8, 14% )A rather old-fashioned blend of Merlot, Grenache and Cariñena that has seen better days. The tannins are drying out the fruit here, leaving a pruney, leathery residue on the palate.