Unoaked Loire Cabernet Franc is one of my favourite styles wine: light, fresh and grassy, with subtle lead pencil aromas and a bright, cool climate finish. That’s exactly what you get here, with acidity that works really well with cheese and red meats.
Red Varietal: Cabernet Franc
2010 Château Clément-Pichon, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux
( £12.50, 14%, Fine + Rare )A cru bourgeois that punches well above its weight, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot typifies the best feautures of the 2010 vintage: freshness and concentration of flavour. It’s ripe, yet well balanced with flavours of cassis and plum, a hint of damson and fine, structured tannins. Needs time.
2009 Château Sénéjac, Haut-Médoc, Bordeaux
( £13.99, 13.5%, The Co-operative )On a deal for the next week, before it reverts to £16.99 after Christmas, this is a well-balanced, aromatic claret that is more focused and refined than many 2009s, but is still pretty forward and full of flavour: with subtle oak, riple plum and blueberry fruit and medium weight tannins. Very drinkable.
2010 La Chapelle de Potensac, Médoc
( £19.99 downto £14.99, 13.5%, Marks & Spencer )Made by the same team that produces the world famous St Julien second growth, Château Léoville-Las-Cases, this is a Médoc that really punches above its supposedly lightweight status. It’s a Merlot-dominated blend with 31% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot for company. Elegant and well balanced, it shows the poise that is typical of the best 2010s, with subtle oak, sweet raspberry and cassis fruit and well-defined tannins.
2013 Domaine du Bourg, Les Graviers, Frédéric Mabileau, Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil, Loire Valley
( £13.99 down to £10.50, 12.41%, Waitrose )If you’re a fan of light, charming, grassy Cabernet Franc from the Loire, look no further than this unoaked stunner from Frédéric Mabileau. It’s appealingly scented, with aromas of cut grass, dill and pencil shavings, a supple, charming palate and bright, crunchy acidity. It tastes even better chilled.
2011 Jordi Oliver, Joc Negre, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 14.5 )A Rhône meets Bordeaux blend, via Emporda of course, this is a four-way cuvée of Garnatxa, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Floral and nuanced, with subtle red fruits that nod towards Pinot Noir, despite the alcohol, backed up by minerality and balance. Drink it chilled.
2012 Can Sais, Migjorn, Empordà, Empordà
( €8, 14% )Using organic and biodynamic methods, Marta Arenas makes appealingly refreshing, understated wines. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and other local varieties is grassy and cassis-like with firmish tannins.
2009 Pere Guardiola , Floresta Criança, Empordà, Empordà
( €7.50, 14.5% )Aromatic, grassy Bordeaux style blend with some Grenache and Syrah for added complexity. The tannins are a little firm here, but the fruit is still fresh and sweet, with cassis and blueberry to the fore.
2008 Celler Brugarol, Bell-Lloc, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )A blend of Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Samsó, this has a strange, pine resin-like nose reminiscent of Retsina. The palate is a little earthy, with some baked, drying tannins and fading fruit.
2009 Lacoste Borie, Pauillac
( £23.99 down to £17.99, 13%, Sainsbury's )If you’re looking for a tasty claret to enjoy now, but that will keep for another six or seven years, this is the perfect candidate. Made by the team at Fifth Growth Pauillac estate, Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste, it’s a light, perfumed, refined, Merlot-based blend with notes of graphite and blackcurrant leaf and impressive balance and poise.
2011 Kanonkop Kadette, Stellenbosch
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Sainsbury's )So-called Cape red blends are controversial, largely because of the inclusion of Pinotage, which can dominate other varieties to a remarkable degree. But that’s not the case here, despite the presence of 57% Pinotage, offset by Merlot and Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc. This is a classy, nauanced red, with well judged oak, fine tannins and leafy, grassy Cabernet combined with sweeter, raspberry notes from the Pinotage.
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