Cold rush

by Matt Walls
It was a crude but effective way of making a wine buying decision: Old World vs. New World. You had savoury, medium-bodied classic styles from Europe on the one hand;...

The Beautiful South

by Tim Atkin
Welcome! Bienvenidos! Thobela! Using a modern day riff on Joel Grey’s famous song in Cabaret, The Beautiful South held its first, keenly-awaited tasting in London last week. If you’ve not...
89

2012 Fairtrade Argentine Malbec, Famatina Valley, La Rioja

( £6.99, 13%, The Co-operative )

Stop press! This is the best Fairtrade wine I’ve had yet from Argentina and one of the best I’ve had from anywhere, too. Sourced from La Rioja (nothing to do with the Spanish region of the same name), it’s very, very aromatic, with wafts of liquourice and violets, a hint of spice and deeply coloured, textured bramble and blackberry fruit. The tannins are plush and sweet, with subtle use of oak. Bravo!

BuyDrinking window: 2013-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Argentina, Red, Malbec
90

2010 Viñalba Cabernet Sauvignon/Malbec/Merlot, Mendoza

( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14.5%, Sainsbury's )

Hervé Joyaux has brought a French sensibility to Argentina, producing well balanced reds at appealing prices that have more than a hint of sophistication. This a pretty serious Bordeaux blend for less than £10, with sweet French oak, appealing violet and bramble aromas, good underlying strucuture and plush, layered tannins. Great value. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-17Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Argentina, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot
93

2011 Emma Zuccardi, Bonarda, Mendoza

( £19.75, 14.5%, Corkingwines.co.uk )

Bonarda is regarded as something of a quaffing variety in Argentina, good for everyday drinking but not capable of anything more exciting. But hang on…this is an incredible red from Sebastián Zuccardi, which takes the variety to new heights. Brambly, savoury and intense, with plum and blueberry fruit, sweet oak and old vine concentration.

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Argentina, Red, Bonarda

Everyday value?

by Matt Walls
Lined up against the wall in my hallway, they stood quietly like forlorn commuters queuing for a bus. These were not bottles to make a taster salivate. Why didn’t I...
88

2011 Finca Flichman Gestos Malbec, Mendoza

( £5.99, 14%, Majestic )

This Portuguese-owned operation in Mendoza makes someof the best value wines in Argentina at the moment, typified by this pungent, sweetly oaked Malbec. It’s got a ripe, almost honeyed sweetness to it, balanced by notes of vanilla, blackberry and spice. You have to serve this with a juicy steak. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Argentina, Red, Malbec

Eleven shades of Nebbiolo

by Matt Walls
To begin with I didn’t get it. Drinking Nebbiolo seemed like trying to swallow a cube, cut from a tree. It was hard, it was sharp, it was dry; and...