91

2011 Valle Pradinhos Branco, Transmontano

( £10.95, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

It’s remarkable to discover that Rui Cunha’s innovative white blend of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Malvasia Fina comes from the Upper Douro, a region usually better known for full-throated reds. But there you go. This tastes as good as it looks: spicy and aromatic with a hint of Burgundian style struck match, notes of lime and ginger, plenty of minerality and a long, nuanced finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-14Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Portugal, White, Gewürztraminer, Malvasia Fina, Riesling
92

2008 Vinoterra Mtsvane, Kakheti

( €11.90, %, Available from the winery )

Apart from being almost impossible to pronounce (seemingly half the letters are silent), Mtsvane has an entrancing soft, rounded texture, and in this example, an aroma of tea leaves and spiced plums. This is a great example of how these amber wines age effortlessly – and indeed are much better after a couple of extra years in bottle, when the tannins resulting from extended skin contact in the qvevri have integrated a bit.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2016Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Georgia, White, Mtsvane
94

2010 Alaverdi Monastery Kisi, Kakheti

( POA, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene )

Alaverdi’s Kisi spends 6 months in the Qvevri, the skins and stalks lending it its deep amber colour, with fine-grained but persistent tannins. The aromas are intensely herbal, almost medicinal with hints of caramel and musk. Quite full bodied, with peachy, cooked stone fruit dominating the palate. Hugely complex, but needs food to show at its best.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2022Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Georgia, White, Kisi
92

2011 Kera Wine Tsolikouri, Kakheti

( N/A, 13.5%, Available from the winery )

Apricot stone aroma, intense minerality and savoury fruit. You’d hardly know this qvevri-fermented wine had spent much time on the skins, as there’s very little phenolic influence. Beautiful balance, bone dry and a terrific match with a traditional Georgian salad of aubergines and tomatoes.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2014Similar Wines: 91-95, Georgia, White, Tsolikouri
95

2010 Alaverdi Monastery Rkatsiteli, Kakheti

( POA, 13%, Les Caves de Pyrene )

This is the wine that first won me over to the charms of the qvevri – the most astoundingly complex nose of tea leaves, baked apples, jasmine, herbs and plum compote (and bear in mind my description does not remotely do it justice). Very much an amber/orange style, with chewy but perfectly ripe tannins – and yet the fruit shines through effortlessly. Outstanding.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-2018Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Georgia, White, Rkatsiteli
93

2008 Château Doisy-Daëne Blanc Sec, Bordeaux

( £19.95, 12.5%, Tanners )

Who says Sauvignon Blanc doesn’t age? When it’s made by Denis Dubourdieu, an academic and hands on winemaker who specialises in the variety, it can be spectacularly good. This is like a mini white Graves, with toasty, bottle-aged complexity, zesty acidity, tangy grapefruit-like flaovurs and a smoky undertone. The wine is delicious now but has more ageing potential if previous releases are a guide. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-15Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Sauvignon Blanc
93

2010 Domaine Morin, Cuvée Ovide, Sancerre, Loire Valley

( £18.95, 13%, Roberson )

The old vine concentration (we’re talking 50 years and counting) is immediately apparent on the nose and palate here. It’s a very subtle, minerally, focused style of Sauvignon Blanc that tastes as if it’s been drained through a bed of limestone. Pithy, restrained, saline, yet very concentrated wtih a finish that skips across your tongue. Drinking this, Ovid would have been moved to poetry.

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, France, White, Sauvignon Blanc
91

2011 d'Arenberg The Hermit Crab Marsanne/Viognier, McLaren Vale, South Australia

( £9.99, 13%, Sainsbury's )

The wonderfully theatrical Chester Osborn is better known for his reds than his whites, but he has a suprisingly subtle touch with the latter, as this very lightly oaked blend of Viognier with 32% Marsanne demonstrates. It’s a spicy, pithy, understated white, with good crunch and zest, a hint of apricot and a mealy, balanced finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-14Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Australia, White, Marsanne, Viognier
91

2011 Leitz Rheingau Riesling Spätlese, Rheingau

( £12.99, 10%, Sainsbury's )

Made by the talented Johannes Leitz, this is a modern Rheingau Riesling from a very good vintage, with classic sweet and sour flavours of apple and stone fruit, 47 grams of sugar, some extra weight from lees contact and a long, crunchy finish. Very refreshing, despite the residual sugar. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-16Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Germany, White, Riesling
89

2011 Fiano Sannio, Campania

( £7.99, 13.5%, Marks & Spencer )

The winemaker behind this southern Italian white is the famous Dr Riccardo Cotarella, who certainly appears to have a magic touch with this increasingly popular grape. It’s spicy and fresh with notes of pear and citrsu fruit and a tangy, unoaked finish. Very focused. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Italy, White, Fiano