91

2011 Juvé y Camps Reserva de la Familia Gran Reserva, Cava

( £19.50, 12% )

A prime example of why it’s worth paying just a little but more (and still less than most Champagne and English fizz) to drink top end Cava rather than the basic supermarket stuff. Rich, honeyed, yet bone dry, this is a traditional style with toasty maturity and the slight bitterness that’s often a feature of Xarel-lo based wines. 

Drinking window: 2016-19Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, Sparkling
94

2014 Gramona Xarel-lo Ovum, Penedès

( 13.50 euros, 12%, Decantalo )

One of a trio of still Xarelo-los from Cava producer, Gramona, this was fermented in concrete eggs (hence the name) and is a thrilling wine that puts the variety on a pedestal where it belongs. Bone dry, rich and complex, with spice, texture and focused minerality, even at a comparatively modest 12%, it’s an unbelievable bargain. You can order it from Spain, but (to my knowledge) it’s not available in the UK. It should be. 

BuyDrinking window: 2016-20Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Xarel-lo
93

2006 Drappier Grande Sendrée, Champagne

( £45, 12%, Widely available )

This is a comparatively forward style of vintage Champage, as many of the 2006s are. It’s rich, toasty and stylish with an undertone of wild mushroom, some spice, fine, pin-head bubbles and a lingering dry finish. Delicious to drink now, but should keep for another four or five years thanks to its taut underlying acidity. 

BuyDrinking window: 2016-20Similar Wines: £30-£50, 91-95, France, Sparkling
92

2015 Granbazán Albariño, Etiqueta Ambar, Rías Baixas

( N/A, 12.5%, Contact the winery for details )

Grown on granitic soils close to Cambados – the self-styled capital of the Albariño grape – this is a remarkable old vine cuvée from one of the best producers of the grape in Rías Baixas. Scented, pure and beautifully balanced, with undertones of lime and apple, it unfurls impressive richness on the palate with pear and stone fruit flavours and a fine, linering finish.

Drinking window: 2016-20Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Albariño