From the flatter, clay rich soils of the lower Emporda region, this is a blend of Malvasia, Xarel-lo, Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeu. Richer in colour with some tannin and grip, this is almost bitter sweet, with honeyed notes and a dry finish. Needs rich food to show at its best.
Celler Petit Emporda Tasting
13 September 2013Masia Carreras Blanc, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €13, 14% )A vineyard-based, barrel-fermented blend of Picapoll, Cariñena Blanca and Garnatxa Blanca. Rich and honeyed, with vanilla spice, fresh acidity and a savoury tang, underpinned by impressive concentration.
2012 Joc Blanc, Jordi Oliver, Rueda, Rueda
( €8.50, 13% )An interloper in the tasting (as it comes from Rueda, not Emporda and is made from Verdejo), but it’s made by Jordi Oliver, hence its inclusion here. Made in a rich, slightly oxidative style with a creamy mid palate and flavours of grapefruit and mango and an undertow of tannin. Very complex, with a minerally finish.
2012 Jordi Oliver , Joc Blanc Godello, Valdeorras, Valdeorras
( €10, 13.5% )Another non-Emporda white, but again made by Jordi Oliver. This is a focused, age-worthy white that is still on the young side, with tangy, almost tart acidity and flavours of pear skin and citrus rind. Minerally and long.
2012 Projecte Sis Garnatxa Gris, Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 12.5% )Made in homeopathic quantities by Ferran Centelles, the former sommelier at the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, this is an old vine white with tangy, refined flavours and bright acidity. Floral and perfumed, this is ideal with seafood.
2012 Clos de les Dòmines Reserva, Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Emporda, Empordà
( €9, 13.5% )An oak-fermented blend of Ganatxa Blanca, Cariñena Blanca and Muscat from one of the region’s better co-ops. The oak is quite assertive here, with some marmalade-like notes from the Muscat and a bitter finish.
2010 Joncària Moscat Barrica, Pere Guardiola, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 13% )A rare, barrel-fermented Muscat that will divide tasters. The combination of subtle vanilla oak and orange zest flavours is rather appealing, although the wine needs the right food to sing. Try it with something spicy.
2012 Quinze Roures, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 13.5% )A blend of two Garnatxas (Blanca and Gris), fermented in barrel together. It’s a tangy, grapefruity white with stylish oak integration, medium colour and impressive depth. Modern and stylish, with a minerally finish.
2011 Old Vines Garnatxa Blanca, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 13% )Pale, refined, elegant Garnatxa Blanca with a subtle oak undertone. Vanilla, a touch of toast and zesty acidity allied to elegant citrus and gooseberry fruit are appealingly combined here. Refreshing and long.
2012 Nivia, Mas Llunes, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 13.5% )A pure Garnatxa Blanca that is still showing its oaky shell. Savoury/sweet with assertive, toasty oak and some bitterness. Decently made, but the oak seems a little too intrusive, at least for now.
2012 Fitó, Mas Romeu, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 12% )A rare Emporda Chardonnay, with only 500 bottles made. Banana notes, with some vanilla and custard cream and good acidity, with an undertone of wild mushroom. Well made, but why produce Chardonnay here?
2012 Castillo Perelada, Garnatxa Blanca, Emporda, emporda
( €5, 13.5% )Unoaked and great value, this old vine Garnacha is fresh and minerally with notes of fennel and fresh lemon and a touch of wild herb bitterness. Bright and well balanced, this is a refreshing seafood white.