An interloper in the tasting (as it comes from Rueda, not
Emporda and is made from Verdejo), but it’s made by Jordi Oliver, hence its
inclusion here. Made in a rich, slightly oxidative style with a creamy mid
palate and flavours of grapefruit and mango and an undertow of tannin. Very
complex, with a minerally finish.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Verdejo
Another non-Emporda white, but again made by Jordi Oliver.
This is a focused, age-worthy white that is still on the young side, with
tangy, almost tart acidity and flavours of pear skin and citrus rind. Minerally
and long.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White
Made in homeopathic quantities by Ferran Centelles, the
former sommelier at the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, this is an old vine
white with tangy, refined flavours and bright acidity. Floral and perfumed,
this is ideal with seafood.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White
An oak-fermented blend of Ganatxa Blanca, Cariñena Blanca
and Muscat from one of the region’s better co-ops. The oak is quite assertive
here, with some marmalade-like notes from the Muscat and a bitter finish.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 81-85, Spain, Red, Grenache Blanc
A rare, barrel-fermented Muscat that will divide tasters.
The combination of subtle vanilla oak and orange zest flavours is rather
appealing, although the wine needs the right food to sing. Try it with
something spicy.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White, Muscat à Petits Grains
A blend of two Garnatxas (Blanca and Gris), fermented in
barrel together. It’s a tangy, grapefruity white with stylish oak integration,
medium colour and impressive depth. Modern and stylish, with a minerally
finish.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
Pale, refined, elegant Garnatxa Blanca with a subtle oak
undertone. Vanilla, a touch of toast and zesty acidity allied to elegant citrus
and gooseberry fruit are appealingly combined here. Refreshing and long.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
A pure Garnatxa Blanca that is still showing its oaky shell.
Savoury/sweet with assertive, toasty oak and some bitterness. Decently made,
but the oak seems a little too intrusive, at least for now.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 81-85, Spain, Red, Grenache Blanc
A rare Emporda Chardonnay, with only 500 bottles made.
Banana notes, with some vanilla and custard cream and good acidity, with an
undertone of wild mushroom. Well made, but why produce Chardonnay here?
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 81-85, Spain, White, Chardonnay
Unoaked and great value, this old vine Garnacha is fresh and
minerally with notes of fennel and fresh lemon and a touch of wild herb
bitterness. Bright and well balanced, this is a refreshing seafood white.
Similar Wines: £5-£10, 86-90, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
A varietal Cariñena Blanca fermented in acacia barrels (no
less), this is a rich and ambitious wine made in a traditional, almost white
Rioja style. Nutty and toasty, with concentrated, oxidative flavours of honey
and spice sustained by acidity.
Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Spain, Red
Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc (not the region’s
strongest suit, it must be said) this is a tangy, grapefruity white with hints
of peach and nectarine and a creamy, lees-derived mid palate. More Graves than
Marlborough.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White, Sauvignon Blanc