A varietal Cariñena Blanca fermented in acacia barrels (no less), this is a rich and ambitious wine made in a traditional, almost white Rioja style. Nutty and toasty, with concentrated, oxidative flavours of honey and spice sustained by acidity.
Celler Petit Emporda Tasting
13 September 20132012 Oliveda, Furot, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €7, 12.5% )Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc (not the region’s strongest suit, it must be said) this is a tangy, grapefruity white with hints of peach and nectarine and a creamy, lees-derived mid palate. More Graves than Marlborough.
2012 Caminante, Terra Remota, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €16, 13.5% )An organic blend of Garnatxa Blanca, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay from one of the most dynamic producers in the region, this is a modern, oaky white showing flavours of pear and apple with some cinnamon spice and tangy acidity.
2012 Joc Blanc, Jordi Oliver, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €7.50, 13.5% )An unoaked blend of Macabeu and Garnatxa Blanca, this is a bargain, with real focus and minerality from a combination of granite and slate soils. Zesty and refreshing with honeysuckle and citrus fruit notes and a long, tapering finish.
2012 Cartesius, Arché Pagès, EmpordÃ
( €12, 14% )Rich, oxidative style Garnatxa Blanca with masses of flavour and concentration: savoury, spicy and rich with well-integrated oak, tangy acidity and thick, powerful flavours. Emporda’s answer to Meursault.
2012 Mallolet, Roig Parals, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €7, 13.5% )There’s a touch of Muscat in the blend of Macabeu and Garnatxa Blanca here, adding a floral, grapey top note to the wine’s minerally, almost saline core. Fresh and floral with flavours of pink grapefruit and wild herbs.
2012 Blanc dels Aspres, Vinyes dels Aspres, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €12, 14.5% )Old vine Garnatxa Blanca from one of the top three producers in Emporda, this is a delicious white: savoury, fresh and well balanced with notes of vanilla and cinnamon, bright, spicy fruit, lovely texture and amazing concentration. (see last year)
2012 Magenc, Cellers d’en Guilla, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €7.50, 13.5% )A small volume blend of classic local grapes from a budding new producer. The aromas and flavours are highly individual here – wet stone and a bone dry, almost salty note – with crisp, tangy acidity and a long finish. Zesty and mouth-watering, this is a white with texture and concentration.
2012 Verd Albera, Martà Fabra, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €6.50, 13% )A crowd pleasing white, combining Garnatxa Blanca with a touch of Muscat, this is aromatic and floral, with flavours of honey and baking spices, some pear and crisp, balancing acidity.
2012 Sà tirs, Arché Pagès, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €6.50, 13.5% )A varietal Macabeu from one of the top young producers in the region. Concentrated and flavoursome with plenty of texture, notes of honeysuckle and pear and a touch of vanilla spice, despite the absence of oak. Great value.
2011 Flor d’Albera, Martà Fabra, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €10, 13% )An unusual, barrel-fermented Muscat from Joan Fabra that isn’t overwhelmed by splinters. Soft and grapey, with hints of honey and white flowers and a hint of bitterness.
2012 Mestral, Can Sais, Baix Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €8, 13.5% )From the flatter, clay rich soils of the lower Emporda region, this is a blend of Malvasia, Xarel-lo, Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeu. Richer in colour with some tannin and grip, this is almost bitter sweet, with honeyed notes and a dry finish. Needs rich food to show at its best.