Rich, oxidative style Garnatxa Blanca with masses of flavour and concentration: savoury, spicy and rich with well-integrated oak, tangy acidity and thick, powerful flavours. Emporda’s answer to Meursault.
Celler Petit Emporda Tasting
13 September 20132012 Mallolet, Roig Parals, Empordà, Empordà
( €7, 13.5% )There’s a touch of Muscat in the blend of Macabeu and Garnatxa Blanca here, adding a floral, grapey top note to the wine’s minerally, almost saline core. Fresh and floral with flavours of pink grapefruit and wild herbs.
2012 Blanc dels Aspres, Vinyes dels Aspres, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 14.5% )Old vine Garnatxa Blanca from one of the top three producers in Emporda, this is a delicious white: savoury, fresh and well balanced with notes of vanilla and cinnamon, bright, spicy fruit, lovely texture and amazing concentration. (see last year)
2012 Magenc, Cellers d’en Guilla, Empordà, Empordà
( €7.50, 13.5% )A small volume blend of classic local grapes from a budding new producer. The aromas and flavours are highly individual here – wet stone and a bone dry, almost salty note – with crisp, tangy acidity and a long finish. Zesty and mouth-watering, this is a white with texture and concentration.
2012 Verd Albera, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €6.50, 13% )A crowd pleasing white, combining Garnatxa Blanca with a touch of Muscat, this is aromatic and floral, with flavours of honey and baking spices, some pear and crisp, balancing acidity.
2012 Sàtirs, Arché Pagès, Emporda, Empordà
( €6.50, 13.5% )A varietal Macabeu from one of the top young producers in the region. Concentrated and flavoursome with plenty of texture, notes of honeysuckle and pear and a touch of vanilla spice, despite the absence of oak. Great value.
2011 Flor d’Albera, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 13% )An unusual, barrel-fermented Muscat from Joan Fabra that isn’t overwhelmed by splinters. Soft and grapey, with hints of honey and white flowers and a hint of bitterness.
2012 Mestral, Can Sais, Baix Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 13.5% )From the flatter, clay rich soils of the lower Emporda region, this is a blend of Malvasia, Xarel-lo, Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeu. Richer in colour with some tannin and grip, this is almost bitter sweet, with honeyed notes and a dry finish. Needs rich food to show at its best.
Masia Carreras Blanc, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €13, 14% )A vineyard-based, barrel-fermented blend of Picapoll, Cariñena Blanca and Garnatxa Blanca. Rich and honeyed, with vanilla spice, fresh acidity and a savoury tang, underpinned by impressive concentration.
2012 Joc Blanc, Jordi Oliver, Rueda, Rueda
( €8.50, 13% )An interloper in the tasting (as it comes from Rueda, not Emporda and is made from Verdejo), but it’s made by Jordi Oliver, hence its inclusion here. Made in a rich, slightly oxidative style with a creamy mid palate and flavours of grapefruit and mango and an undertow of tannin. Very complex, with a minerally finish.
2012 Jordi Oliver , Joc Blanc Godello, Valdeorras, Valdeorras
( €10, 13.5% )Another non-Emporda white, but again made by Jordi Oliver. This is a focused, age-worthy white that is still on the young side, with tangy, almost tart acidity and flavours of pear skin and citrus rind. Minerally and long.
2012 Projecte Sis Garnatxa Gris, Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 12.5% )Made in homeopathic quantities by Ferran Centelles, the former sommelier at the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, this is an old vine white with tangy, refined flavours and bright acidity. Floral and perfumed, this is ideal with seafood.