Pale, Provence-style rosé in a stylish package, this brings the Côte d’Azur to the Costa Brava. A tangy, food friendly rosé with subtle, rosehip and raspberry fruit and good, underlying acidity. Very drinkable.
Celler Petit Emporda Tasting
13 September 20132012 Terra Remota, Tan Natural Tempranillo, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 13% )Unusually for Empordà (uniquely?) this is a varietal, organically-farmed Tempranillo with minimal sulphur. It’s the cheapest red from the bodega: vibrant and juicy, with plum and raspberry fruit and good concentration.
2008 Celler Brugarol, Bell-Lloc, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )A blend of Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Samsó, this has a strange, pine resin-like nose reminiscent of Retsina. The palate is a little earthy, with some baked, drying tannins and fading fruit.
2010 Arché Pagès, Ull de Serp, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 15.5% )A single-vineyard Garnatxa made in a ripe, slightly raisiny style with firm tannins and marked alcohol. Well made, but I can’t see this improving in the bottle. A little dry, with too much oak for the weight of fruit.
2012 Mas Romeu, Malesa Rosat, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 12.5% )A pale-coloured rosado with marked acidity, slightly lacking in concentration with a touch of oxidation and a bitter finish. Needs more weight and fruit.
2012 Espelt Viticultors, Old Vines Garnacha, Empordà, Empordà
( €9, 14% )Youthful, modern, fruit-dominated Garnatxa (or Garnacha, if you prefer) with a lick of oak. Juicy, raspberry and bramble fruit and well made with succulent tannins and a hint of reduction.
2009 Celler Brugarol, Bell Lloc, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )A different blend and a different vintage, showing some reduction, a touch of sweet oak, medium weight tannins and refreshing acidity. Once more, I’d like more fruit and weight on the palate.
2009 Terra Remota, Clos Adrien, Empordà, Empordà
( €40 , 15% )A rich, slightly figgy blend of Syrah and Grenache with spicy oak, firm tannins and notes of rosemary and thyme. Rich and dense, with a slightly drying finish. The alcohol is a little marked on the finish.
2012 Terra Remota, Caminito, Empordà
( €12, 13.5% )Blending Garnatxa and Syrah and aged for six months in oak, this is an ambitious rosado with good concentration and notes of red fruits and wild herbs. Subtle wild strawberry fruit, a nip of tannin and fresh acidity. Slightly pricey.
2007 Mas Llunes, Rhodes, Empordà, Empordà
( €9 , 14.5% )Named after the Roman term for Roses, this is a rich, profoundly coloured blend of Cariñena and Syrah. Chewy, concentrated and showing some oak, this is a little dry, but has enough fruit sweetness for balance. A little rustic.
2011 Espelt Viticultors,Terres Negres, Empordà, Empordà
( €11, 14% )Pure Cariñena from a winery that combines the best of traditional and modern philosophies, producing wines with integrity. A rich, lightly-oaked, stylish red that shows the grape variety at its best with plum and sweet, figgy fruit and good minearlity and freshness.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 1/09 Samsó Pissarra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )As its name suggests, this is grown on slate soils. It’s a single vineyard Cariñena with impressive elegance and refreshing acidity to balance the high alcohol. Textured, spicy and very Mediterranean with notes of wild thyme and fennel.