Using organic and biodynamic methods, Marta Arenas makes appealingly refreshing, understated wines. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and other local varieties is grassy and cassis-like with firmish tannins.
Celler Petit Emporda Tasting
13 September 20132009 Martí Fabra, Vinyes Velles, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 15% )Old vine Cariñena and Garnacha that expresses the essence of Empordà. Rich, concentrated an slightly rustic with high-toned notes of fig, volatile acidity and wild herbs. Needs food.
2010 Espelt Viticultors, Coma Bruna, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )The top wine from this exciting winery is a blend of Cariñena and Syrah, with heady, spicy perfume to the fore and sweet, spicy vanilla oak. The bite and rusticity of the Cariñena kicks in on the palate, giving the wine acidity, tannin and a hint of what Australians call grunt. Complex stuff.
2004 Vinyes dels Aspres, Bac de les Ginesteres, Emporda, Empordà
( €25 (37.5cl), 14.5% )Savoury, spicy, complex, mature, espresso notes with some sun-dried rancio complexity and Tokaj like acidity. Hazelnut and dried fruits, with complexity that builds on the palate. Complex, Sherry-like notes. Superb.
2008 Empordàlia, Coromina, Empordà, Empordà
( €9, 14.5% )A varietal Cariñena from one of the better co-ops in the region. This is a tarry, slightly chewy red with plenty of tannin, notes of wild Mediterranean herbs and refreshing acidity. The fruit is drying a little on the palate.
2008 Martí Fabra, Masia Carreras, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )A Cariñena-based blend with some bottle age. Despite the high alcohol, this is a stylish wine, with savoury tannins, sweet flavours of fig and wild strawberry and a rich, satisfying finish.
2008 Vinyes d’Olivardots, Gresa, Alt Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )Maturing nicely, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet with sweet, balsamic notes, ripe, figgy fruit, some wild herbs and well-integrated alcohol. Appealingly complex.
NV Martí Fabra, Masia Pairal Can Carreras, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Grapey, sweet, fortified Muscat with a slight alcoholic burn, this has notes of citrus and spice and marked acidity on the finish.
2009 Maset Plana, A21, Empordà, Empordà
( €8, 14% )A rather old-fashioned blend of Merlot, Grenache and Cariñena that has seen better days. The tannins are drying out the fruit here, leaving a pruney, leathery residue on the palate.
2012 Julio de la Camera, Tarari, Empordà, Empordà
( €6, 14% )Inky, profoundly coloured, structured blend of Cariñena and Merlot, the latter benefiting from some oak. It’s a little raw at the moment, but there’s plenty of plum and blackberry fruit here. A name to keep an eye on.
Castillo Perelada, Ex Ex 9, Empordà 2010/2011, Empordà
( €50, 14.5% )Ex ex stands exceptional experiences, apparently, with this being the ninth release under this label. Aromatic, alcoholic and eucalyptus-perfumed, this is a revolutionary blend of Sangiovese and Nero d’Avola with bright acidity, medium tannins and good structure, with vanilla oak adding an extra layer of flavour.
NV Can Carreras, Garnatxa de L’Emporda, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Complex, mature, figgy fortified, with notes of hazelnut and crème caramel, a touch of sweetness, some rancio flavours and a dry, tapering finish. Very complex, very long, with integrated spirit notes.