The more popular David Molas’ wines become the less we will
see reds with some bottle age, which is a shame as these certainly develop over
time. Combining Cariñena, Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a stylish,
spicy, sun-kissed wine with subtle oak and notes of incense and dried herbs.
Similar Wines: £20-£30, 91-95, Spain, Red, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Grenache, Merlot
A big improvement on the 2005 from this co-op, this is brighter, fresher and more alive. It’s a little dry and rustic, but there’s appealing fruit sweetness beneath it: figgy, yet surprisingly youthful, with bramble and blackberry fruit.
Similar Wines: £30-£50, 86-90, Spain, Red
From the flatter, clay rich soils of the lower Emporda
region, this is a blend of Malvasia, Xarel-lo, Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeu.
Richer in colour with some tannin and grip, this is almost bitter sweet, with
honeyed notes and a dry finish. Needs rich food to show at its best.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc, Macabeo, Malvasia Fina, Xarel-lo
A vineyard-based, barrel-fermented blend
of Picapoll, Cariñena Blanca and Garnatxa Blanca. Rich and honeyed, with
vanilla spice, fresh acidity and a savoury tang, underpinned by impressive
concentration.
Similar Wines: £20-£30, 86-90, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
An interloper in the tasting (as it comes from Rueda, not
Emporda and is made from Verdejo), but it’s made by Jordi Oliver, hence its
inclusion here. Made in a rich, slightly oxidative style with a creamy mid
palate and flavours of grapefruit and mango and an undertow of tannin. Very
complex, with a minerally finish.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Verdejo
Another non-Emporda white, but again made by Jordi Oliver.
This is a focused, age-worthy white that is still on the young side, with
tangy, almost tart acidity and flavours of pear skin and citrus rind. Minerally
and long.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White
Made in homeopathic quantities by Ferran Centelles, the
former sommelier at the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, this is an old vine
white with tangy, refined flavours and bright acidity. Floral and perfumed,
this is ideal with seafood.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White
An oak-fermented blend of Ganatxa Blanca, Cariñena Blanca
and Muscat from one of the region’s better co-ops. The oak is quite assertive
here, with some marmalade-like notes from the Muscat and a bitter finish.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 81-85, Spain, Red, Grenache Blanc
A rare, barrel-fermented Muscat that will divide tasters.
The combination of subtle vanilla oak and orange zest flavours is rather
appealing, although the wine needs the right food to sing. Try it with
something spicy.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White, Muscat à Petits Grains
A blend of two Garnatxas (Blanca and Gris), fermented in
barrel together. It’s a tangy, grapefruity white with stylish oak integration,
medium colour and impressive depth. Modern and stylish, with a minerally
finish.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 91-95, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
Pale, refined, elegant Garnatxa Blanca with a subtle oak
undertone. Vanilla, a touch of toast and zesty acidity allied to elegant citrus
and gooseberry fruit are appealingly combined here. Refreshing and long.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 86-90, Spain, White, Grenache Blanc
A pure Garnatxa Blanca that is still showing its oaky shell.
Savoury/sweet with assertive, toasty oak and some bitterness. Decently made,
but the oak seems a little too intrusive, at least for now.
Similar Wines: £10-£20, 81-85, Spain, Red, Grenache Blanc