A different blend and a different vintage, showing some reduction, a touch of sweet oak, medium weight tannins and refreshing acidity. Once more, I’d like more fruit and weight on the palate.
Celler Petit Emporda Tasting
13 September 20132009 Terra Remota, Clos Adrien, Empordà, Empordà
( €40 , 15% )A rich, slightly figgy blend of Syrah and Grenache with spicy oak, firm tannins and notes of rosemary and thyme. Rich and dense, with a slightly drying finish. The alcohol is a little marked on the finish.
2012 Clos de les Dòmines Reserva, Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Emporda, Empordà
( €9, 13.5% )An oak-fermented blend of Ganatxa Blanca, Cariñena Blanca and Muscat from one of the region’s better co-ops. The oak is quite assertive here, with some marmalade-like notes from the Muscat and a bitter finish.
2010 Joncària Moscat Barrica, Pere Guardiola, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 13% )A rare, barrel-fermented Muscat that will divide tasters. The combination of subtle vanilla oak and orange zest flavours is rather appealing, although the wine needs the right food to sing. Try it with something spicy.
2012 Quinze Roures, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 13.5% )A blend of two Garnatxas (Blanca and Gris), fermented in barrel together. It’s a tangy, grapefruity white with stylish oak integration, medium colour and impressive depth. Modern and stylish, with a minerally finish.
2011 Old Vines Garnatxa Blanca, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 13% )Pale, refined, elegant Garnatxa Blanca with a subtle oak undertone. Vanilla, a touch of toast and zesty acidity allied to elegant citrus and gooseberry fruit are appealingly combined here. Refreshing and long.
2012 Nivia, Mas Llunes, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 13.5% )A pure Garnatxa Blanca that is still showing its oaky shell. Savoury/sweet with assertive, toasty oak and some bitterness. Decently made, but the oak seems a little too intrusive, at least for now.
2012 Fitó, Mas Romeu, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 12% )A rare Emporda Chardonnay, with only 500 bottles made. Banana notes, with some vanilla and custard cream and good acidity, with an undertone of wild mushroom. Well made, but why produce Chardonnay here?
2012 Castillo Perelada, Garnatxa Blanca, Emporda, emporda
( €5, 13.5% )Unoaked and great value, this old vine Garnacha is fresh and minerally with notes of fennel and fresh lemon and a touch of wild herb bitterness. Bright and well balanced, this is a refreshing seafood white.
2012 Finca La Garriga, Castillo Perelada, Emporda, Empordà
( €17.50, 13.5% )A varietal Cariñena Blanca fermented in acacia barrels (no less), this is a rich and ambitious wine made in a traditional, almost white Rioja style. Nutty and toasty, with concentrated, oxidative flavours of honey and spice sustained by acidity.
2012 Oliveda, Furot, Emporda, Empordà
( €7, 12.5% )Made entirely from Sauvignon Blanc (not the region’s strongest suit, it must be said) this is a tangy, grapefruity white with hints of peach and nectarine and a creamy, lees-derived mid palate. More Graves than Marlborough.
2012 Caminante, Terra Remota, Emporda, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )An organic blend of Garnatxa Blanca, Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay from one of the most dynamic producers in the region, this is a modern, oaky white showing flavours of pear and apple with some cinnamon spice and tangy acidity.