Another non-Emporda white, but again made by Jordi Oliver. This is a focused, age-worthy white that is still on the young side, with tangy, almost tart acidity and flavours of pear skin and citrus rind. Minerally and long.
Country: Spain
2012 Projecte Sis Garnatxa Gris, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €8, 12.5% )Made in homeopathic quantities by Ferran Centelles, the former sommelier at the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, this is an old vine white with tangy, refined flavours and bright acidity. Floral and perfumed, this is ideal with seafood.
2012 Clos de les Dòmines Reserva, Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €9, 13.5% )An oak-fermented blend of Ganatxa Blanca, Cariñena Blanca and Muscat from one of the region’s better co-ops. The oak is quite assertive here, with some marmalade-like notes from the Muscat and a bitter finish.
2010 Joncà ria Moscat Barrica, Pere Guardiola, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €7.50, 13% )A rare, barrel-fermented Muscat that will divide tasters. The combination of subtle vanilla oak and orange zest flavours is rather appealing, although the wine needs the right food to sing. Try it with something spicy.
2012 Quinze Roures, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €10, 13.5% )A blend of two Garnatxas (Blanca and Gris), fermented in barrel together. It’s a tangy, grapefruity white with stylish oak integration, medium colour and impressive depth. Modern and stylish, with a minerally finish.
2011 Old Vines Garnatxa Blanca, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €10, 13% )Pale, refined, elegant Garnatxa Blanca with a subtle oak undertone. Vanilla, a touch of toast and zesty acidity allied to elegant citrus and gooseberry fruit are appealingly combined here. Refreshing and long.
2012 Nivia, Mas Llunes, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €7.50, 13.5% )A pure Garnatxa Blanca that is still showing its oaky shell. Savoury/sweet with assertive, toasty oak and some bitterness. Decently made, but the oak seems a little too intrusive, at least for now.
2012 Fitó, Mas Romeu, Emporda, EmpordÃ
( €12, 12% )A rare Emporda Chardonnay, with only 500 bottles made. Banana notes, with some vanilla and custard cream and good acidity, with an undertone of wild mushroom. Well made, but why produce Chardonnay here?
NV Tesco Cava Reserva NV, Penedès
( £6.99 down to £5.24, 11.5%, Tesco )A traditional Cava blend (with no sign of international Chardonnay or Pinot Noir), this bottle-fermented and aged fizz is on the dry side, with crisp acidity, a hint of earthiness (more pleasant than it sounds, believe me) and a tangy, lightly toasty finish. Great party fizz.
2011 Finest* Albariño, RÃas Baixas
( £7.99 down to £5.99, 12.5%, Tesco )It’s a reflection of how Albariño, one of Spain’s best white grapes, has entered the UK mainstream that the major supermarkets nearly all have own-label examples these days. This is from the ever-dependable Martin Codax, and it’s a classy example of the style, showing some spritz, floral aromas, tangy acidity and notes of citrus and honeysuckle. Very quaffable.
2012 Simply Garnacha Rosé, Campo de Borja
( £4.59 down to £3.44, 13.5%, Tesco )You don’t get much for less than £3.50 these days, but this Garnacha pink from Bodegas Borsao is very drinkable stuff: dry and pleasantly fruity with flavours of rosehip, cherry and strawberry and vibrant acidity, especially noteworthy from such a warm Spanish region. A chance of celebrate the end of a memorable summer in the UK.
2012 Taste the Difference Albariño, Val do Salnés, RÃas Baixas
( £7.99 down to £5.99, 12.5%, Sainsbury's )Classic Alabriño from the Val do Salnés sub region of RÃas Baixas on Spain’s Atlantic coast, showing lots of floral perfume, notes of pepper and aniseed, zesty acidity and a bone dry, seafood friendly finish. Spain’s answer to Muscadet, but with a flavour that is all its own.