A crowd pleasing white, combining Garnatxa Blanca with a touch of Muscat, this is aromatic and floral, with flavours of honey and baking spices, some pear and crisp, balancing acidity.
Country: Spain
2012 Sàtirs, Arché Pagès, Emporda, Empordà
( €6.50, 13.5% )A varietal Macabeu from one of the top young producers in the region. Concentrated and flavoursome with plenty of texture, notes of honeysuckle and pear and a touch of vanilla spice, despite the absence of oak. Great value.
2011 Flor d’Albera, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 13% )An unusual, barrel-fermented Muscat from Joan Fabra that isn’t overwhelmed by splinters. Soft and grapey, with hints of honey and white flowers and a hint of bitterness.
2012 Mestral, Can Sais, Baix Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 13.5% )From the flatter, clay rich soils of the lower Emporda region, this is a blend of Malvasia, Xarel-lo, Garnatxa Blanca and Macabeu. Richer in colour with some tannin and grip, this is almost bitter sweet, with honeyed notes and a dry finish. Needs rich food to show at its best.
Masia Carreras Blanc, Martí Fabra, Empordà, Empordà
( €13, 14% )A vineyard-based, barrel-fermented blend of Picapoll, Cariñena Blanca and Garnatxa Blanca. Rich and honeyed, with vanilla spice, fresh acidity and a savoury tang, underpinned by impressive concentration.
2012 Joc Blanc, Jordi Oliver, Rueda, Rueda
( €8.50, 13% )An interloper in the tasting (as it comes from Rueda, not Emporda and is made from Verdejo), but it’s made by Jordi Oliver, hence its inclusion here. Made in a rich, slightly oxidative style with a creamy mid palate and flavours of grapefruit and mango and an undertow of tannin. Very complex, with a minerally finish.
2012 Jordi Oliver , Joc Blanc Godello, Valdeorras, Valdeorras
( €10, 13.5% )Another non-Emporda white, but again made by Jordi Oliver. This is a focused, age-worthy white that is still on the young side, with tangy, almost tart acidity and flavours of pear skin and citrus rind. Minerally and long.
2012 Projecte Sis Garnatxa Gris, Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 12.5% )Made in homeopathic quantities by Ferran Centelles, the former sommelier at the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, this is an old vine white with tangy, refined flavours and bright acidity. Floral and perfumed, this is ideal with seafood.
2012 Clos de les Dòmines Reserva, Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Emporda, Empordà
( €9, 13.5% )An oak-fermented blend of Ganatxa Blanca, Cariñena Blanca and Muscat from one of the region’s better co-ops. The oak is quite assertive here, with some marmalade-like notes from the Muscat and a bitter finish.
2010 Joncària Moscat Barrica, Pere Guardiola, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 13% )A rare, barrel-fermented Muscat that will divide tasters. The combination of subtle vanilla oak and orange zest flavours is rather appealing, although the wine needs the right food to sing. Try it with something spicy.
2012 Quinze Roures, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 13.5% )A blend of two Garnatxas (Blanca and Gris), fermented in barrel together. It’s a tangy, grapefruity white with stylish oak integration, medium colour and impressive depth. Modern and stylish, with a minerally finish.
NV Tesco Cava Reserva NV, Penedès
( £6.99 down to £5.24, 11.5%, Tesco )A traditional Cava blend (with no sign of international Chardonnay or Pinot Noir), this bottle-fermented and aged fizz is on the dry side, with crisp acidity, a hint of earthiness (more pleasant than it sounds, believe me) and a tangy, lightly toasty finish. Great party fizz.