Angela Martin’s wines seem to get better with every vintage and are now among my favourite Albariños from Rías Baixas. The combination of low yields, ageing on lees in tank for added weight and very pure, almost transparent fruit flavours is very enticing here: apple, pear and some quince with a hint of honey.
Country: Spain
2011 Perez Burton Rioja
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Marks & Spencer )Telmo Rodriguez is a brilliant interpreter of the Tempranillo grape, producing wines that are modern, yet appealingly traditional at the same time. This varietal number from high altitude vineyards around the village of Lanciego, is a very serious red for less than a tenner. Juicy, structured and sweetly oaked, with tannins and concentration that will enable the wines to age further in bottle.
Dry Old Palo Cortado, Jerez
( £7.49, 19%, Marks & Spencer )Great Sherry remains one of the wine world’s great bargains, even in half bottles like this one from the high quality Emilion Lustau operation. This is a classic Palo – with slightly more weight than an Amontillado, but similalry nutty, savoury flavours. Bone dry on the palate, with lovely, old barrel-aged notes of toast and grilled almonds and a salty note from five years spent in a Fino solera system. Great as an aperitif, but also amazing with tapas.
2012 Bolo Godello Mountain Wine, Valdeorras
( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )Alabriño may be more familiar to consumers than Godello, but the latter grape can be just as exciting. It’s more mineral and weighty (and even works well with oak on occasion). This high altitude example is fresh and bone dry, with a chalky, almost Chablis-like note and flavours of citrus, apple and pear.
2012 The Society's Albariño, Rías Baixas
( £12.95, 13%, The Wine Society )If you’re going to use one winery as your source of house Albariño, Pazo de Señorans is a great choice. This is weighty and concentrated by local standards, showing aromas of lime blossom and fresh straw, crisp, apple and citrus fruit and an undertone of stony minerality. Long and very stylish.
2011 Guímaro Mencia, Ribeira Sacra
( £10.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )Made entirely from the Mencia grape (think Tempranaillo crossed with Cabernet France in style) this is a perfumed, refreshing red that carries its 14.5% alcohol without any apparent struggle. Pepper spicy and aromatic, with notes of wild thyme and lavender, this unoaked, faintly chewy red is a delight. Great with roast lamb.
2011 Jordi Oliver, Joc Negre, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 14.5 )A Rhône meets Bordeaux blend, via Emporda of course, this is a four-way cuvée of Garnatxa, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Floral and nuanced, with subtle red fruits that nod towards Pinot Noir, despite the alcohol, backed up by minerality and balance. Drink it chilled.
2007 Arché Pagès, Cartesius, Empordà, Empordà
( €11, 15.5% )The alcohol is a little high here, but this cuvée of Grenache and Cabernet has aged extremely well, showing notes of wild herbs, mint and sweet red fruits with a subtle undertone of oak. Very stylish, very drinkable.
2009 Can Sais, Expressió Zero Sulfits, Baix Empordà, Empordà
( €30, 15% )Pure Grenache, with only 800 bottles made, all of them without sulphur. Classy, aromatic and bright, with lovely perfume, sweet tannins, good acidity and juicy, raspberry and wild strawberry fruit and some wild herbs. A very well-balanced wine.
NV Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Garnatxa Sol i Serena, Emporda, Empordà
( €12, 15.5% )Traditional, oxidative, tawny Port meets Oloroso Sherry style with marked sweetness and developed, rancio notes. Nutty, figgy fruit flavours with some crème caramel notes and aged complexity.
2011 Celler d’en Guilla, Rec de Brau, Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 15% )A turbo-charged Samsó (Cariñena) and Garnatxa blend with deep colour and evident oak on the nose. Dense, wild and herby, with plenty of thyme and rosemary flaovurs, firmish, food friendly tannins and dark, brambly fruit.
Try this with a juicy steak or a leg of lamb.
2005 Pere Guardiola, Clos Floresta, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 14% )A good example of a mature blend of Merlot, Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet, with fresh, grassy acidity, medium weight tannins and a chewy undertone. Drink up, as the fruit is starting to fade a little.