Angela Martin’s wines seem to get better with every vintage and are now among my favourite Albariños from Rías Baixas. The combination of low yields, ageing on lees in tank for added weight and very pure, almost transparent fruit flavours is very enticing here: apple, pear and some quince with a hint of honey.
Country: Spain
2011 Perez Burton Rioja
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Marks & Spencer )Telmo Rodriguez is a brilliant interpreter of the Tempranillo grape, producing wines that are modern, yet appealingly traditional at the same time. This varietal number from high altitude vineyards around the village of Lanciego, is a very serious red for less than a tenner. Juicy, structured and sweetly oaked, with tannins and concentration that will enable the wines to age further in bottle.
Dry Old Palo Cortado, Jerez
( £7.49, 19%, Marks & Spencer )Great Sherry remains one of the wine world’s great bargains, even in half bottles like this one from the high quality Emilion Lustau operation. This is a classic Palo – with slightly more weight than an Amontillado, but similalry nutty, savoury flavours. Bone dry on the palate, with lovely, old barrel-aged notes of toast and grilled almonds and a salty note from five years spent in a Fino solera system. Great as an aperitif, but also amazing with tapas.
2012 Bolo Godello Mountain Wine, Valdeorras
( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )Alabriño may be more familiar to consumers than Godello, but the latter grape can be just as exciting. It’s more mineral and weighty (and even works well with oak on occasion). This high altitude example is fresh and bone dry, with a chalky, almost Chablis-like note and flavours of citrus, apple and pear.
2012 The Society's Albariño, Rías Baixas
( £12.95, 13%, The Wine Society )If you’re going to use one winery as your source of house Albariño, Pazo de Señorans is a great choice. This is weighty and concentrated by local standards, showing aromas of lime blossom and fresh straw, crisp, apple and citrus fruit and an undertone of stony minerality. Long and very stylish.
2011 Guímaro Mencia, Ribeira Sacra
( £10.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )Made entirely from the Mencia grape (think Tempranaillo crossed with Cabernet France in style) this is a perfumed, refreshing red that carries its 14.5% alcohol without any apparent struggle. Pepper spicy and aromatic, with notes of wild thyme and lavender, this unoaked, faintly chewy red is a delight. Great with roast lamb.
2012 Can Sais, Migjorn, Empordà, Empordà
( €8, 14% )Using organic and biodynamic methods, Marta Arenas makes appealingly refreshing, understated wines. This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and other local varieties is grassy and cassis-like with firmish tannins.
2008 Martí Fabra, Masia Carreras, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )A Cariñena-based blend with some bottle age. Despite the high alcohol, this is a stylish wine, with savoury tannins, sweet flavours of fig and wild strawberry and a rich, satisfying finish.
Castillo Perelada, Ex Ex 9, Empordà 2010/2011, Empordà
( €50, 14.5% )Ex ex stands exceptional experiences, apparently, with this being the ninth release under this label. Aromatic, alcoholic and eucalyptus-perfumed, this is a revolutionary blend of Sangiovese and Nero d’Avola with bright acidity, medium tannins and good structure, with vanilla oak adding an extra layer of flavour.
NV Can Carreras, Garnatxa de L’Emporda, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Complex, mature, figgy fortified, with notes of hazelnut and crème caramel, a touch of sweetness, some rancio flavours and a dry, tapering finish. Very complex, very long, with integrated spirit notes.
2008 Empordàlia, Coromina, Empordà, Empordà
( €9, 14.5% )A varietal Cariñena from one of the better co-ops in the region. This is a tarry, slightly chewy red with plenty of tannin, notes of wild Mediterranean herbs and refreshing acidity. The fruit is drying a little on the palate.
2012 Julio de la Camera, Tarari, Empordà, Empordà
( €6, 14% )Inky, profoundly coloured, structured blend of Cariñena and Merlot, the latter benefiting from some oak. It’s a little raw at the moment, but there’s plenty of plum and blackberry fruit here. A name to keep an eye on.