The use of oak is restrained here (one of the distinguishing features of this impressive Terra Alta winery) allowing the fruit to express itself. It’s a subtle, finely crafted blend of mostly Garnacha with 30% Syrah and 10% Morenillo (yup, I had to to look that one up, too), showing, sweet red fruits, subtle vanilla spice, bright acidity and polished tannins.
Country: Spain
2012 LaFou Els Amelers, Terra Alta
( £12.82, 13.5%, Contact the winery for details )Made entirely from Garnacha Blanca, this delicately oaked white is creamy and herbal, with lovely texture, pear and honeysucke fruit. a touch of aniseed and a taut, minerally finish.
2012 Albariño de Fefiñanes, RÃas Baixas
( £15.99, 12.5%, Waitrose )A bottle of this superlative Albariño is never far from my hand when I’m on holiday in Spain in the summer. The 2012 is well up to the high standards of recent vintages, possibly with a little more weight. Floral pefume, lemon and lime on the palate, crisp acidity and a hint of spritz: it all adds up to a delicious Atlantic-influenced white.
2012 Bodega Castro Martin Albariño, RÃas Baixas
( £11.99 down to £8.99, 12.5%, Marks & Spencer )Angela Martin’s wines seem to get better with every vintage and are now among my favourite Albariños from RÃas Baixas. The combination of low yields, ageing on lees in tank for added weight and very pure, almost transparent fruit flavours is very enticing here: apple, pear and some quince with a hint of honey.
2011 Perez Burton Rioja
( £9.99 down to £7.49, 14%, Marks & Spencer )Telmo Rodriguez is a brilliant interpreter of the Tempranillo grape, producing wines that are modern, yet appealingly traditional at the same time. This varietal number from high altitude vineyards around the village of Lanciego, is a very serious red for less than a tenner. Juicy, structured and sweetly oaked, with tannins and concentration that will enable the wines to age further in bottle.
Dry Old Palo Cortado, Jerez
( £7.49, 19%, Marks & Spencer )Great Sherry remains one of the wine world’s great bargains, even in half bottles like this one from the high quality Emilion Lustau operation. This is a classic Palo – with slightly more weight than an Amontillado, but similalry nutty, savoury flavours. Bone dry on the palate, with lovely, old barrel-aged notes of toast and grilled almonds and a salty note from five years spent in a Fino solera system. Great as an aperitif, but also amazing with tapas.
2012 Bolo Godello Mountain Wine, Valdeorras
( £9.95, 13%, The Wine Society )Alabriño may be more familiar to consumers than Godello, but the latter grape can be just as exciting. It’s more mineral and weighty (and even works well with oak on occasion). This high altitude example is fresh and bone dry, with a chalky, almost Chablis-like note and flavours of citrus, apple and pear.
2012 The Society's Albariño, RÃas Baixas
( £12.95, 13%, The Wine Society )If you’re going to use one winery as your source of house Albariño, Pazo de Señorans is a great choice. This is weighty and concentrated by local standards, showing aromas of lime blossom and fresh straw, crisp, apple and citrus fruit and an undertone of stony minerality. Long and very stylish.
2011 GuÃmaro Mencia, Ribeira Sacra
( £10.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )Made entirely from the Mencia grape (think Tempranaillo crossed with Cabernet France in style) this is a perfumed, refreshing red that carries its 14.5% alcohol without any apparent struggle. Pepper spicy and aromatic, with notes of wild thyme and lavender, this unoaked, faintly chewy red is a delight. Great with roast lamb.
2012 Vinyes dels Aspres, Oriol Negre, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €6, 14.5% )Blending Cariñena, Garnatxa and Cabernet Sauvignon to good effect, David Molas has produced an unoaked cuvée with lots of character. The alcohol isn’t apparent here, thanks to the fresh acidity, while the tannins are surrounded by sweet raspberry fruit. A winery that never lets you down.
2009 Martà Fabra, Vinyes Velles, Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €10, 15% )Old vine Cariñena and Garnacha that expresses the essence of Empordà . Rich, concentrated an slightly rustic with high-toned notes of fig, volatile acidity and wild herbs. Needs food.
2008 Vinyes d’Olivardots, Gresa, Alt Empordà , EmpordÃ
( €20, 14.5% )Maturing nicely, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet with sweet, balsamic notes, ripe, figgy fruit, some wild herbs and well-integrated alcohol. Appealingly complex.