Imagine, if you will, two equally-skilled chef-restaurateurs whom we’ll call Jean-Paul and Jean-Jacques. J-P’s philosophy is simple: he makes the most out of locally-grown ingredients – even when they aren’t...
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Cornelissen’s way – Making wine without sulphur
Mount Etna’s most controversial winemaker, Frank Cornelissen, is a hard man to track down. After a first failed meet up (my tardiness partially to blame) and a number of vague...
Read MoreI’m not 100 points on that
What’s the definition of a 100-point wine? Depending on who’s handing out the numbers, a cynic might say it’s something you can’t afford and don’t want to drink anyway, but...
Read MoreSpend less, drink better
The UK is a nation of bargain hunters. There are more pound shops on Britain’s high streets than bookstores. When it comes to wine we’re no different; most of what...
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Keith Waterhouse and the wine bars of London
If any man deserved the epithet, a legend in his own lunchtime, it was Keith Waterhouse. You probably remember him for his plays Billy Liar, made into a film with...
Read MoreCommander of Wine
It was a stupendous amount of work. I knew that going into it, but, still, it was overwhelming. I persevered, spent countless hours studying and memorizing, and I’m proud to...
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Virgile Joly: Doing it the hard way
If you work in the wine industry, you’ve probably heard this joke before: What’s the best way to become a millionaire in wine? Answer – start with two million. Definitely...
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Taking to the flor
Fashion, so the experts say, is cyclical. Wear your flared jeans or Annie Hall waistcoat long enough and you’ll eventually look like you’re in with the in crowd. (Don’t hold...
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Searching for the perfect Pinot Grigio
It’s OK, you can admit it. We’re all friends here. You don’t like Pinot Grigio, do you? To say so out loud feels a bit snobby, almost… grapist. But it...
Read MoreThe Golden Age of Tedious Wine Writing
People have been writing about wine for as long as there has been wine, and nearly as poorly as they write about it today. It’s humbling to be part of...
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A review of Christie’s World Encyclopedia of Champagne & sparkling wine (Absolute Press)
Although certainly a fully revised and updated edition of Tom Stevenson’s standard reference work on Champagne and all things effervescent, this opus is more than that- it’s very much Essi...
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Fizz talk: what emerged from the International Sparkling Wine Symposium
With some big names in sparkling wine on five continents billed to speak at Denbies for this, the third and largest yet ISWS, the gathering mood was of course one...
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