92

2009 Château de Santenay, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Pale garnet/ruby with a splash of pink. Youthful, elegant and complex perfume: savoury, some oak and supple red fruits. The acidity is very crisp, lending the wine balance and harmony and freshness. There’s quite a bit of  stuffing on the palate, suggesting that the wine will develop in bottle. Good and likley to get better. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
97

2009 Drouhin-Laroze, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Vibrant, purple-hued Pinot from one of the top producers in Gevrey, specialising in deliberately modern style. Yes, it’s a big, bold, powerful wine, but it’s harmonious too. Youthful, vigorous and sweet with a subtle interplay between red and blacks fruits, succulent tannins and a finish that promises more to come in the bottle. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-2022Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
91

2009 Dufouleur Frères, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

A pale, almost translucent Pinot. Scented, leafy and complex with gentle understatement and a touch of smoky oak. The palate is very sweet, but the oak is a little intrusive here. A shae because the fruit is of high quality and the acidity gives the wine a refreshing lift. Maybe the oak will integrate with time. 

Drinking window: 2014-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
93

2009 Alex Gambal, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Pale ruby red, slightly coudy. Elegant, perfumed, nuanced Clos de Vougeot with light red fruits and subtle oak on the nose. The palate has a little more oomph, but it’s still made in a gentle, quite forward style. Raspberry and redcurrant with some grip, a touch of leafiness and a long, harmonious finish. Likely to be reasonably priced, too. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
91

2009 Château Genot-Boulanger, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Mid garnet with a pinkish rim. Ginger spice and some reduction on the nose: smoky, well balanced and structured. The wine is both jammy and a teeny bit reduced on the palate, but it’s sustained by fresh acidity and medium weight tannins. It should age, but the alcohol may start to dominate in bottle. 

BuyDrinking window: 2014-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
90

2009 Régis Forey, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Youthful, mid garnet. The nose is a little closed and showing some meaty, reductive notes that hang around in the glass. A hint ot redcurrant, sweet oak and also some evidence of over-ripeness, with a figgy, currant-like note. A good wine, but the tannins are a little dry. Not a Pinot to cellar for a long time. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-18Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, France, Red, Pinot Noir
98

2009 Hubert de Montille, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

The De Montille family (remember them from Mondovino?) are more commonly associated with the Côte de Beaune, but that is beginning to change thanks to some recent acquisitions in the Côte de Nuits. This is very pale in colour, showing marked whole bunch character on the nose and palate. And what a wine it is: a Grand Cru that lives up to its name: balanced, sweet, nuanced and very long with refined tannins and complexity to age. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-25Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
95

2009 Faiveley, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Mid garnet, pale rim. Still quite closed. Red cherry and some Asian spices on the nose. Quite a powerrfu, dense wines with plenty of tannin and oak. Ripe and silky, very well rounded with good ageing potential. Textured and plush, this underlines recent improvements at this Nuits St Georges-based négociant house. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
97

2009 Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

If you can get past the outrageously heavy bottle (and I had trouble lifting it off the table), this is a superb wine. Bright, youthful, ruby red in colour. Lovely bramble and wild strawberry fruit on the nose. Plush and sweet with good acidity for balance. So Pinot? Silky, scented, beguiling, gentle with impressive delicacy for the vintage. 

BuyDrinking window: 2012-13Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir