Very pale garnet/pink, verging on a rosé in hue. The alcohol is a little prominent on the nose, but there’s good acidity and some texture too. The fruit is a tad over-ripe and confected, but the tannins are gentle, the flavours palate-caressingly sweet.
Fine and Rare Clos de Vougeot tasting
29 August 20122009 Anne Gros, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Mid-garnet with a ruby/pink rim. Aromatic, oak-infused nose, made in a modern style. Juicy with a hint of stemminess. Structured with an appealing interplay between fruit, acid and oak. Good length, punchy, made to age.
2009 Méo-Camuzet, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )An impressive wine from one of the star names in Vosne, very much on the up at the moment. Mid garnet with some purple notes. Big, rich, bold and oaky, but backed up witt lots of dense fruit, ostensibly from low-yielding vines. Spice, plum and balckberry on the palate, some stems and a long, silky, harmonious finish. Lovely wine.
2009 Domaine d'Ardhuy, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Mid ruby/pink. Smoky, incense-like nose. A wine that needs time to express itself. At the moment, the tannins seem a little dry and extracted, possibly a result of the hot vintage. But there’s good underlying structure here and sweet, concentrated fruit.
2009 R. Dubois, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Mid-ruby/garnet. Youthful, but also on the over-ripe side. The sample I tasted was showing some oxidation and pruneyness. Curranty, slightly bitter with lots of oak. Rather four square. Maybe it was a bad sample?
2009 Laurent Roumier, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Pale garnet/red. Aromatic, leafy, wild strawberry nose, with just a hint of oak. Fine and nuanced. Lovely, sweet, textured fruit, with acidity underpinning the flavours. The oak and extraction are perfectly judged here. The wine is very long: Pinot wizardry showing real mastery of the vintage and the cru.
2009 Henri Boillot, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Pale purple with a pinkish rim. The nose is on the oaky side with a slightly feral note. The palate is leafy and a little dry, but there’s a refreshing twist that lifts the wine on the finish. It just needs a little more fruit in the middle for plumpness.
2009 Armelle et Bernard Rion, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )If you like your red Burgundies pale (and I’ve seen deeper coloured rosés than this), purchase a case of this wine. Very delicate on the nose with wild strawberry and a hint of spice. Sweet cherry fruit on the palate, with a touch of meaty reduction. Light and ethereal, this is a very drinkable Pinot, although arguably closer to Premier than Grand Cru quality.
2009 Georges Mugneret-Gibourg, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )If you can get past the outrageously heavy bottle (and I had trouble lifting it off the table), this is a superb wine. Bright, youthful, ruby red in colour. Lovely bramble and wild strawberry fruit on the nose. Plush and sweet with good acidity for balance. So Pinot? Silky, scented, beguiling, gentle with impressive delicacy for the vintage.
2009 Louis Jadot, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Pale ruby/pink with a hint of garnet. This is a rather light wine (delicacy is no bad thing in 2009), but it’s showing far too much oak for the weight of fruit. Chewy and firm, the wine lacks finesse. The barrels have swallowed the fruit.
2009 Domaine Denis Mortet, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )There’s no denying the quaility or ambition of the wines from this revitalised domaine. This is a very powerful Pinot, closer to a top Gevrey than a Clos de Vougeot. There’s a lot of oak on the wine at the moment, but this is a wine that is built for bottle age. The underlying fruit is excellent, just waiting to strut its stuff in five years or more.
2009 Château de la Tour, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Intense mid rubyintense colour. Ripe, aromatic, heady (almost hedonistic?) nose, showing some forest floor and fresh leather notes. Big, ripe and bold, this is something of a statement wine. It’s arguably a little simple, reflecting the vintage as much as the terroir. The wine is ripe, with plenty of extraction and a slightly hot, dry finish.