93

2009 Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

I am a huge fan of the 2010s from Etienne Grivot’s Vosne-Romanée-based domaine, so the 2009s inevitably suffer by comparison. But this is still a very good wine: quite oaky at the moment, but with excellent underlying sweetness, crunchy acidity and rich black fruits. The oak should intergrate over the next five years. 

BuyDrinking window: 2017-25Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
98

2009 Jean-Jacques Confuron, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

To me, this was one of the wines of the tasting: a pale, scented, delicately crafted Clos de Vougeot that deserves a slot in any Burgundy lover’s cellar. Aromatic and fine, with well integrated oak, wild berry fruit, sappy acidity and superb texture and balance. Who says the 2009s aren’t well balanced? 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
97

2009 Jacky Confuron-Cotetidot, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Yves Confuron’s wines are very distinctive, partly because of his use of stems but also because of his way of expressing his vineyards. Mid garnet/pink, with a stemmy, but highly aromatic nose. Quite traditional in style, with a firm tanninc backbone giving structure to the sweetness of the fruit. Fresh acidity, finely poised. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-25Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
96

2009 Daniel Rion, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Mid ruby/pink. Very youthful, with just a hint of (acceptable) reduction. Scented, sexy, plush fruit on the palate with fine-grained tannins and minerally, lip-smacking acidity. Perfumed, complex and mouthwatering, with a long, tapering finish. An impressive wine that will improve further in bottle. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-25Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
97

2009 Bertrand Ambroise, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Bertrand Ambroise makes some of the best value Burgundies on the market, from his basic wines right up to his Grands Crus. They are characterised by restrained use of oak, subtle, understated fruit flavours and considerable finesse. This is light, perfumed and refreshing, but with complex wild starwberry and forest floor notes, tangy acidity, great poise and a fine, tapering finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2014-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
93

2009 Jacques Prieur, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Famous for its amazing Grand Cru holdings, Jacques Prieur hits the heights more often with its whites than its reds. That’s not to play down the quality of this wine, which is very good indeed; rather it is intended to praise the Côte de Beaune wines. This is aromatic and smoky, with subtle oak, sweet red fruits and enough structure and tannin to age. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
95

2009 Domaine de la Vougeraie, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

The quality of this Boisset-owned domaine within a négociant is consistently outstanding, thanks to very good vineyards and the talent of winemaker Pierre Vincent. This is very pale and elegant on the nose and palate, almost ethereal in fact. It may not age for a long time, but it’s delicious now, with notes of redcurrant and sweet raspberries. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir