96

2009 Daniel Rion, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Mid ruby/pink. Very youthful, with just a hint of (acceptable) reduction. Scented, sexy, plush fruit on the palate with fine-grained tannins and minerally, lip-smacking acidity. Perfumed, complex and mouthwatering, with a long, tapering finish. An impressive wine that will improve further in bottle. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-25Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
97

2009 Bertrand Ambroise, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Bertrand Ambroise makes some of the best value Burgundies on the market, from his basic wines right up to his Grands Crus. They are characterised by restrained use of oak, subtle, understated fruit flavours and considerable finesse. This is light, perfumed and refreshing, but with complex wild starwberry and forest floor notes, tangy acidity, great poise and a fine, tapering finish. 

BuyDrinking window: 2014-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 96-100, France, Red, Pinot Noir
93

2009 Jacques Prieur, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Famous for its amazing Grand Cru holdings, Jacques Prieur hits the heights more often with its whites than its reds. That’s not to play down the quality of this wine, which is very good indeed; rather it is intended to praise the Côte de Beaune wines. This is aromatic and smoky, with subtle oak, sweet red fruits and enough structure and tannin to age. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
95

2009 Domaine de la Vougeraie, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

The quality of this Boisset-owned domaine within a négociant is consistently outstanding, thanks to very good vineyards and the talent of winemaker Pierre Vincent. This is very pale and elegant on the nose and palate, almost ethereal in fact. It may not age for a long time, but it’s delicious now, with notes of redcurrant and sweet raspberries. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
87

2009 Michel Gros, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Pale garnet in colour, very delicate. A little oak-dominated on the nose and palate, with a note of burnt meat. There might be a little whole bunch character here, or it could just be the slightly intrusive oak. Whatever it is, it reminded me of an Islay malt whisky’s peatiness. Strange wine. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, France, Red, Pinot Noir
94

2009 Jean-Luc Aegerter, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

A new name to me, but one to remember, for this is a stylish wine. Youthful and light, albeit in a modern, fruity style, with sweet oak backed up by scented pomegranate and raspberry fruit and subtly interwoven oak. Fresh and lively on the palate with very good length and appealing sweetness. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir