95

2009 Domaine de la Vougeraie, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

The quality of this Boisset-owned domaine within a négociant is consistently outstanding, thanks to very good vineyards and the talent of winemaker Pierre Vincent. This is very pale and elegant on the nose and palate, almost ethereal in fact. It may not age for a long time, but it’s delicious now, with notes of redcurrant and sweet raspberries. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
87

2009 Michel Gros, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Pale garnet in colour, very delicate. A little oak-dominated on the nose and palate, with a note of burnt meat. There might be a little whole bunch character here, or it could just be the slightly intrusive oak. Whatever it is, it reminded me of an Islay malt whisky’s peatiness. Strange wine. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 86-90, France, Red, Pinot Noir
94

2009 Jean-Luc Aegerter, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

A new name to me, but one to remember, for this is a stylish wine. Youthful and light, albeit in a modern, fruity style, with sweet oak backed up by scented pomegranate and raspberry fruit and subtly interwoven oak. Fresh and lively on the palate with very good length and appealing sweetness. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
95

2009 Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Consistently among my favourite négociants in Burgundy, Drouhin makes very good wines at every level. This is delicate pink in colour. On the nose and palate, it’s remarkably elegant for a 2009, with no sign of high alcohol. Refined and aromatic with rose petal and tomato leaf scents, leading on to fresh, cherry and wild stawberry fruit. Appealingly understated. 

BuyDrinking window: 2015-22Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
94

2009 Thibault Liger-Belair, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

A Nuits St Georges-based producer whose wines are improving with every vintage, Thibault Liger-Belair makes wines that age well, but have plenty of fruit in their youth. This is a little alcoholic on the palate (hard to avoid in 2009), but has attractive cherrystone and raspberry fruit, subtle oak and enough frehsness and minerality to develop in bottle. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir
91

2009 Maison Champy, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy

( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )

Pale garnet/pink. There’s some smoky reduction on the nose and palate initially, but it’s balanced by attractive red fruit flavours. The acidity is suprisingly high for a 2009 (is this yield related?) and the wine is just a little short on texture and weight, but it’s still an enjoyable Pinot. 

BuyDrinking window: 2013-20Similar Wines: Under £5, 91-95, France, Red, Pinot Noir