Yves Confuron’s wines are very distinctive, partly because of his use of stems but also because of his way of expressing his vineyards. Mid garnet/pink, with a stemmy, but highly aromatic nose. Quite traditional in style, with a firm tanninc backbone giving structure to the sweetness of the fruit. Fresh acidity, finely poised.
Fine and Rare Clos de Vougeot tasting29 August 2012
2009 Guillemard-Clerc, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Showing some development already. On the nose and palate, this is rather old-fashioned in style, exhibiting notes of dead leaves, some meaty reduction and simple tomato skin flavours. A poor show for a Grand Cru Burgundy.
2009 Daniel Rion, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Mid ruby/pink. Very youthful, with just a hint of (acceptable) reduction. Scented, sexy, plush fruit on the palate with fine-grained tannins and minerally, lip-smacking acidity. Perfumed, complex and mouthwatering, with a long, tapering finish. An impressive wine that will improve further in bottle.
2009 Bertrand Ambroise, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Bertrand Ambroise makes some of the best value Burgundies on the market, from his basic wines right up to his Grands Crus. They are characterised by restrained use of oak, subtle, understated fruit flavours and considerable finesse. This is light, perfumed and refreshing, but with complex wild starwberry and forest floor notes, tangy acidity, great poise and a fine, tapering finish.
2009 Ponsot, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Deep ruby with purple notes. Evidence of over-ripeness on the nose and palate, with some volatility, oxidation and extraction. Pruney and tannic, this is the sort of wine that gives Clos de Vougeot a bad name as a Grand Cru.
2009 Jacques Prieur, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Famous for its amazing Grand Cru holdings, Jacques Prieur hits the heights more often with its whites than its reds. That’s not to play down the quality of this wine, which is very good indeed; rather it is intended to praise the Côte de Beaune wines. This is aromatic and smoky, with subtle oak, sweet red fruits and enough structure and tannin to age.
2009 Henri de Villamont, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Very, very pale, almost transparent Pinot. Delicate and very subtle with red fruits, a hint of forest floor and wild mushrooms. Long and refined with grainy, sculpted tannins, refreshing acidity and a long finish. The wine needs a little more concentration perhaps.
2009 Domaine de la Vougeraie, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
The quality of this Boisset-owned domaine within a négociant is consistently outstanding, thanks to very good vineyards and the talent of winemaker Pierre Vincent. This is very pale and elegant on the nose and palate, almost ethereal in fact. It may not age for a long time, but it’s delicious now, with notes of redcurrant and sweet raspberries.
2009 Antonin Rodet, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Mid garnet/pink. A little closed on the nose and showing some reduction, possibly pre-bottling. Red fruits, cherry and a hint of int, with fresh acidity and some minerality. Not massively complex, but more than acceptable.
2009 Michel Gros, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Pale garnet in colour, very delicate. A little oak-dominated on the nose and palate, with a note of burnt meat. There might be a little whole bunch character here, or it could just be the slightly intrusive oak. Whatever it is, it reminded me of an Islay malt whisky’s peatiness. Strange wine.
2009 Sylvain Loichet, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Mid ruby/garnet. Aromatic, modern style with quite a bit of oak. Firm and slightly chunky on the palate, but there’s more than enough fruit underneath for balance. A wine that is still in the starting blocks. Give it some time and it will hit its stride.
2009 Vincent Girardin, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )
Youthful mid garnet/ruby. Made in a very aromatic, modern style, that might be OTT to some. It’s got quite a bit of grip and tanni, with lots of flashy oak and ripe, sweet fruit. I’d like fewer splinters, but this is still an ambitious wine.