A blend of Garnatxa, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon that flirts with high volatile acidity and some green notes but still manages to work. Serious tannins, slightly dry, with capsicum and blackcurrant flavours.
Score Range: 86-90
2006 Empordàlia, Antima, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 14.5% )A big improvement on the 2005 from this co-op, this is brighter, fresher and more alive. It’s a little dry and rustic, but there’s appealing fruit sweetness beneath it: figgy, yet surprisingly youthful, with bramble and blackberry fruit.
2009 Castillo Perelada, Finca Espolla, Empordà, Empordà
( €14, 14% )Combining Syrah and Monastrella (Mourvèdre), this is made in a modern style. There’s a marked minty note on the nose and palate (almost eucalyptus) that adds another dimension to the spicy, blackberry fruit.
2010 Arché Pagès, Ull de Serp, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 15.5% )A single-vineyard Garnatxa made in a ripe, slightly raisiny style with firm tannins and marked alcohol. Well made, but I can’t see this improving in the bottle. A little dry, with too much oak for the weight of fruit.
2012 Celler d’en Guilla, Vinya del Metge, Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 13% )Pale, Provence-style rosé in a stylish package, this brings the Côte d’Azur to the Costa Brava. A tangy, food friendly rosé with subtle, rosehip and raspberry fruit and good, underlying acidity. Very drinkable.
2009 Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Clos de les Dòmines, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 14.5% )Grassy, concentrated blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cariñena from an ambitious co-operative. The tannins are a tad firm, but this is a serious, cassis-scented red with fresh acidity and a hint of greenness.
2009 Terra Remota, Clos Adrien, Empordà, Empordà
( €40 , 15% )A rich, slightly figgy blend of Syrah and Grenache with spicy oak, firm tannins and notes of rosemary and thyme. Rich and dense, with a slightly drying finish. The alcohol is a little marked on the finish.
2012 Terra Remota, Caminito, Empordà
( €12, 13.5% )Blending Garnatxa and Syrah and aged for six months in oak, this is an ambitious rosado with good concentration and notes of red fruits and wild herbs. Subtle wild strawberry fruit, a nip of tannin and fresh acidity. Slightly pricey.
2008 Oliveda, Furot Reserva, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 13% )A feral, slightly chewy blend of Cabernet, Grenache and Merlot with tannins that are too pronounced for the fruit. A twist of the pepper grinder adds interest here, but this would have been better two years ago.
2005 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Dolç de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 16.5% )Mature, full-flavoured blend of Garnatxa and Cariñena, showing rich, liquoricey fruit flavours, notes of dried figs and herbs, some spirit and a fiery finish. Dry and a little too hot, this should be drunk now.
2012 Martí Fabra, Lladoner, Empordà, Empordà
( €5, 13% )Fresh, spicy, raspberry fruity rosado with good acidity and a little bit of residual sweetness. Rosehip and wild strawberry, with appealing freshness.
2007 Arché Pagès, Cartesius, Empordà, Empordà
( €11, 15.5% )The alcohol is a little high here, but this cuvée of Grenache and Cabernet has aged extremely well, showing notes of wild herbs, mint and sweet red fruits with a subtle undertone of oak. Very stylish, very drinkable.