This isn’t the most expensive brands in the full-flavoured Spice Route range, but it’s often one of my favourite reds from this innovative winery. It’s an appealing combo of no fewer than six grapes, with lots of sweet vanilla oak, spicy clove and nutmeg and a mixture of bramble, red berry and blackberry fruit intensity. Needs a barbecue to show at its best.
Score Range: 91-95
2011 Guímaro Mencia, Ribeira Sacra
( £10.95, 14.5%, The Wine Society )Made entirely from the Mencia grape (think Tempranaillo crossed with Cabernet France in style) this is a perfumed, refreshing red that carries its 14.5% alcohol without any apparent struggle. Pepper spicy and aromatic, with notes of wild thyme and lavender, this unoaked, faintly chewy red is a delight. Great with roast lamb.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 1/09 Samsó Pissarra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )As its name suggests, this is grown on slate soils. It’s a single vineyard Cariñena with impressive elegance and refreshing acidity to balance the high alcohol. Textured, spicy and very Mediterranean with notes of wild thyme and fennel.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 2/09 Samsó Sorra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )This is sourced from sandy soils, but it’s another single vineyard, old vine Cariñena. Richer, denser and more oxidative in style, this is figgy and slightly dry with a balsamic undertone. More tannic, too.
2006 Castillo Perelada, Finca Garbet, Empordà, Empordà
( €100 , 14.5% )The most photographed vineyard in Catalunya (and one of the most ambitiously priced), this is minty, herbal and surprisingly youthful for a 2006. Syrah with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, showing lots of oak, sweet fruit and a firm finish. An ambitious wine that should age further in bottle.
2009 Terra Remota, Usted, Empordà, Empordà
( €100, 15% )Very serious, very ambitious, but so it should be at the price. This blend of Syrah and Grenache shows flavours of sweet red fruits, vanilla spice and liquorice with stylish, smooth tannins, superb balance and a slightly dry finish.
NV Pere Guardiola, Torre de Capmany Gran Reserva, Emporda, Empordà
( €15, 15% )Mature, concentrated, figgy fortified style made in a tawny, barrel-aged style. The volatility is quite marked here, but it’s a complex, aged style with nutty, almond and rancio flavours and impressive, Christmas cake complexity
2004 Vinyes dels Aspres, Bac de les Ginesteres, Emporda, Empordà
( €25 (37.5cl), 14.5% )Savoury, spicy, complex, mature, espresso notes with some sun-dried rancio complexity and Tokaj like acidity. Hazelnut and dried fruits, with complexity that builds on the palate. Complex, Sherry-like notes. Superb.
2011 Jordi Oliver, Joc Negre, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 14.5 )A Rhône meets Bordeaux blend, via Emporda of course, this is a four-way cuvée of Garnatxa, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Floral and nuanced, with subtle red fruits that nod towards Pinot Noir, despite the alcohol, backed up by minerality and balance. Drink it chilled.
NV Can Carreras, Garnatxa de L’Emporda, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Complex, mature, figgy fortified, with notes of hazelnut and crème caramel, a touch of sweetness, some rancio flavours and a dry, tapering finish. Very complex, very long, with integrated spirit notes.
2009 Vinyes dels Aspres, Negre dels Aspres, Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 15% )The more popular David Molas’ wines become the less we will see reds with some bottle age, which is a shame as these certainly develop over time. Combining Cariñena, Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a stylish, spicy, sun-kissed wine with subtle oak and notes of incense and dried herbs.
2010 Roig Parals, Camí de Cormes, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 15% )The top wine from Roig Parals, sourced from an old, low-yielding vineyard named after a Civil War escape route through the Pyrenees. With incense and wild herbs on the nose, this is like walking into a Catholic church during high mass. Dense and concentrated, with subtle oak, layer upon layer of wild, spicy , herbal flavours, medium-weight, tarry tannins and a sweet core of fruit sustained by refreshing acidity.