Complex, mature, figgy fortified, with notes of hazelnut and crème caramel, a touch of sweetness, some rancio flavours and a dry, tapering finish. Very complex, very long, with integrated spirit notes.
Score Range: 91-95
2009 Vinyes dels Aspres, Negre dels Aspres, Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 15% )The more popular David Molas’ wines become the less we will see reds with some bottle age, which is a shame as these certainly develop over time. Combining Cariñena, Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a stylish, spicy, sun-kissed wine with subtle oak and notes of incense and dried herbs.
2010 Roig Parals, Camí de Cormes, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 15% )The top wine from Roig Parals, sourced from an old, low-yielding vineyard named after a Civil War escape route through the Pyrenees. With incense and wild herbs on the nose, this is like walking into a Catholic church during high mass. Dense and concentrated, with subtle oak, layer upon layer of wild, spicy , herbal flavours, medium-weight, tarry tannins and a sweet core of fruit sustained by refreshing acidity.
2009 Castillo Perelada, Finca Malaveïna, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14% )Blending Mediterranean and Bordeaux varieties to good effect, this is an ambitious, savoury, concentrated red with sturdy tannins, marked oak and youthful, intense, blackberry and mulberry fruit.
2009 Can Sais, Expressió Zero Sulfits, Baix Empordà, Empordà
( €30, 15% )Pure Grenache, with only 800 bottles made, all of them without sulphur. Classy, aromatic and bright, with lovely perfume, sweet tannins, good acidity and juicy, raspberry and wild strawberry fruit and some wild herbs. A very well-balanced wine.
2010 Espelt Viticultors, Coma Bruna, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )The top wine from this exciting winery is a blend of Cariñena and Syrah, with heady, spicy perfume to the fore and sweet, spicy vanilla oak. The bite and rusticity of the Cariñena kicks in on the palate, giving the wine acidity, tannin and a hint of what Australians call grunt. Complex stuff.
2008 Vinyes d’Olivardots, Gresa, Alt Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )Maturing nicely, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet with sweet, balsamic notes, ripe, figgy fruit, some wild herbs and well-integrated alcohol. Appealingly complex.
2012 Sàtirs, Arché Pagès, Emporda, Empordà
( €6.50, 13.5% )A varietal Macabeu from one of the top young producers in the region. Concentrated and flavoursome with plenty of texture, notes of honeysuckle and pear and a touch of vanilla spice, despite the absence of oak. Great value.
2012 Joc Blanc, Jordi Oliver, Rueda, Rueda
( €8.50, 13% )An interloper in the tasting (as it comes from Rueda, not Emporda and is made from Verdejo), but it’s made by Jordi Oliver, hence its inclusion here. Made in a rich, slightly oxidative style with a creamy mid palate and flavours of grapefruit and mango and an undertow of tannin. Very complex, with a minerally finish.
2012 Quinze Roures, Espelt Viticultors, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 13.5% )A blend of two Garnatxas (Blanca and Gris), fermented in barrel together. It’s a tangy, grapefruity white with stylish oak integration, medium colour and impressive depth. Modern and stylish, with a minerally finish.
2012 Finca La Garriga, Castillo Perelada, Emporda, Empordà
( €17.50, 13.5% )A varietal Cariñena Blanca fermented in acacia barrels (no less), this is a rich and ambitious wine made in a traditional, almost white Rioja style. Nutty and toasty, with concentrated, oxidative flavours of honey and spice sustained by acidity.
2012 Cartesius, Arché Pagès, Empordà
( €12, 14% )Rich, oxidative style Garnatxa Blanca with masses of flavour and concentration: savoury, spicy and rich with well-integrated oak, tangy acidity and thick, powerful flavours. Emporda’s answer to Meursault.