An interloper in the tasting (as it comes from Rueda, not Emporda and is made from Verdejo), but it’s made by Jordi Oliver, hence its inclusion here. Made in a rich, slightly oxidative style with a creamy mid palate and flavours of grapefruit and mango and an undertow of tannin. Very complex, with a minerally finish.
Another non-Emporda white, but again made by Jordi Oliver. This is a focused, age-worthy white that is still on the young side, with tangy, almost tart acidity and flavours of pear skin and citrus rind. Minerally and long.
Made in homeopathic quantities by Ferran Centelles, the former sommelier at the world-famous El Bulli restaurant, this is an old vine white with tangy, refined flavours and bright acidity. Floral and perfumed, this is ideal with seafood.
An oak-fermented blend of Ganatxa Blanca, Cariñena Blanca and Muscat from one of the region’s better co-ops. The oak is quite assertive here, with some marmalade-like notes from the Muscat and a bitter finish.
A rare, barrel-fermented Muscat that will divide tasters. The combination of subtle vanilla oak and orange zest flavours is rather appealing, although the wine needs the right food to sing. Try it with something spicy.
A traditional Cava blend (with no sign of international Chardonnay or Pinot Noir), this bottle-fermented and aged fizz is on the dry side, with crisp acidity, a hint of earthiness (more pleasant than it sounds, believe me) and a tangy, lightly toasty finish. Great party fizz.
It’s a reflection of how Albariño, one of Spain’s best white grapes, has entered the UK mainstream that the major supermarkets nearly all have own-label examples these days. This is from the ever-dependable Martin Codax, and it’s a classy example of the style, showing some spritz, floral aromas, tangy acidity and notes of citrus and honeysuckle. Very quaffable.
You don’t get much for less than £3.50 these days, but this Garnacha pink from Bodegas Borsao is very drinkable stuff: dry and pleasantly fruity with flavours of rosehip, cherry and strawberry and vibrant acidity, especially noteworthy from such a warm Spanish region. A chance of celebrate the end of a memorable summer in the UK.
A top Rioja Reserva for less than £20? Sounds very appealing to me. This is very much a modern style Rioja, with the emphasis on Tempranillo (97% of the blend here, with 3% Graciano for added backbone) and the ability to age further in bottle rather than drinkability on release. This is sweetly oaked, with fine tannins, fresh, minerally acidity and a core of red and black fruits. Long, textured and very complex, it’s still a very young wine, so hold off if you can.
Classic Alabriño from the Val do Salnés sub region of Rías Baixas on Spain’s Atlantic coast, showing lots of floral perfume, notes of pepper and aniseed, zesty acidity and a bone dry, seafood friendly finish. Spain’s answer to Muscadet, but with a flavour that is all its own.
If you love Fino Sherry – and who doesn’t? – this is about as good as it gets: an unfined, unfiltered fortified that was bottled in April when the flor yeast is at its thickest on the surface of the wine, giving it that bready, savoury complexity. More deeply coloured than the regular Tio Pepe, this is a salty, tangy delight that’s absolutely brilliant with a plate of anchovies or almonds. Essence of Andalusia.
Serious, concentrated, inky Tempranillo from Ribera with excellent structure and acidity. This is less oaky than some of this bodega’s releases and better for it in my view, with flavours of plum and spice, a touch of vanilla and a backbone of tannin. Should age well, too.