White Varietal: Other Whites
The pick of Waitrose’s wine rangeby Tim Atkin
My pick of Sainsbury’s 25% off wine dealby Tim Atkin
Independents’ day with The Dirty Dozenby Tim Atkin
2008 AA Badenhorst Family White, Swartland( £24, 14.5%, Swig )
After an impressive tenure at Rustenburg, Adi Badenhorst is doing some really exciting things at his new project in the Swartland. This fruit salad white blend of mostly Chenin Blanc with Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, Verdelho, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc is a stunner. There’s a sheen of French oak, but what distinguishes the wine is its fruit depth and complexity: perfumed and blossom-scented with notes of honey, ginger spice, fresh apples, peach and a crunchy, refreshing finish. A producer to watch, given his track record.
2010 Planeta Carricante, Sicilia( £17.99 - £16.50 for the 2009, 13%, Great Western Wine )
Is Mount Etna Italy’s greatest secret when it comes to whites? It certainly makes some amazing wines from the Carricante grape: taut, minerally and refreshing. This is stony and crisp with notes of white flowers and lime blossom and a tangy finish. Sicily’s answer to Chablis. Drink now to 3 years.
South Africa’s Mediterranean futureby Tim Atkin
2010 Domäne Wachau Terraces Grüner Veltliner, Wachau( £8.49, down to £6.36 from June 29 to July 19, 12%, Waitrose )
You might want to wait until this excellent, entry point Grüner goes on special offer at the end of the month, but it’s a really good wine with which to celebrate the arrival of summer. It’s taut, minerally and complex, with pure fruit flavours, no oak, and lovely aromas of white flowers, white pepepr and wet stones. The kind of thing that makes you want to sing in the (Viennese) woods.
2010 Cerutti Moscato d'Asti "Suri Sandrinet", Cassinasco( £11.75, 5%, Berry Bros & Rudd )
Moscato is one of my favourite summer aperitifs, capable of greatness as well as perfume and zing in the hands of a top producer like Gianmario Cerutti. This one comes from a sunny (“suri” in Italian) vineyard located at 350 metres, combining freshness with fruit concentration. This has 125 grams of residual sugar, but you don’t notice it thanks to the citrus fruit acidity. Grapey, frothy, filligree bubbles with a palate-cleansing finish.