A varietal Cariñena from one of the better co-ops in the region. This is a tarry, slightly chewy red with plenty of tannin, notes of wild Mediterranean herbs and refreshing acidity. The fruit is drying a little on the palate.
Celler Petit Emporda Tasting
13 September 20132008 Martí Fabra, Masia Carreras, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )A Cariñena-based blend with some bottle age. Despite the high alcohol, this is a stylish wine, with savoury tannins, sweet flavours of fig and wild strawberry and a rich, satisfying finish.
2008 Vinyes d’Olivardots, Gresa, Alt Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )Maturing nicely, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet with sweet, balsamic notes, ripe, figgy fruit, some wild herbs and well-integrated alcohol. Appealingly complex.
NV Martí Fabra, Masia Pairal Can Carreras, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Grapey, sweet, fortified Muscat with a slight alcoholic burn, this has notes of citrus and spice and marked acidity on the finish.
2009 Maset Plana, A21, Empordà, Empordà
( €8, 14% )A rather old-fashioned blend of Merlot, Grenache and Cariñena that has seen better days. The tannins are drying out the fruit here, leaving a pruney, leathery residue on the palate.
2012 Julio de la Camera, Tarari, Empordà, Empordà
( €6, 14% )Inky, profoundly coloured, structured blend of Cariñena and Merlot, the latter benefiting from some oak. It’s a little raw at the moment, but there’s plenty of plum and blackberry fruit here. A name to keep an eye on.
Castillo Perelada, Ex Ex 9, Empordà 2010/2011, Empordà
( €50, 14.5% )Ex ex stands exceptional experiences, apparently, with this being the ninth release under this label. Aromatic, alcoholic and eucalyptus-perfumed, this is a revolutionary blend of Sangiovese and Nero d’Avola with bright acidity, medium tannins and good structure, with vanilla oak adding an extra layer of flavour.
NV Can Carreras, Garnatxa de L’Emporda, Emporda, Empordà
( €8 (37.5cl), 15% )Complex, mature, figgy fortified, with notes of hazelnut and crème caramel, a touch of sweetness, some rancio flavours and a dry, tapering finish. Very complex, very long, with integrated spirit notes.
2009 Maset Plana, Criança Selecció, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 14.5% )Pruney, dry, raisiny red with baked tannins and dry, chewy tannins. A wine that lacks freshness and vivacity.
2009 Vinyes dels Aspres, Negre dels Aspres, Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 15% )The more popular David Molas’ wines become the less we will see reds with some bottle age, which is a shame as these certainly develop over time. Combining Cariñena, Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a stylish, spicy, sun-kissed wine with subtle oak and notes of incense and dried herbs.
2006 Empordàlia, Antima, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 14.5% )A big improvement on the 2005 from this co-op, this is brighter, fresher and more alive. It’s a little dry and rustic, but there’s appealing fruit sweetness beneath it: figgy, yet surprisingly youthful, with bramble and blackberry fruit.
2008 Vinícola del Nordest, Anubis Reserva, Empordà, Empordà
( €14, 15% )A high-toned blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with plenty of structure and tannin. Not the subtlest wine in the world, with flavours that are starting to turn a little pruney. Pricey, too.