Pruney, dry, raisiny red with baked tannins and dry, chewy tannins. A wine that lacks freshness and vivacity.
Celler Petit Emporda Tasting
13 September 20132009 Vinyes dels Aspres, Negre dels Aspres, Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 15% )The more popular David Molas’ wines become the less we will see reds with some bottle age, which is a shame as these certainly develop over time. Combining Cariñena, Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a stylish, spicy, sun-kissed wine with subtle oak and notes of incense and dried herbs.
2006 Empordàlia, Antima, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 14.5% )A big improvement on the 2005 from this co-op, this is brighter, fresher and more alive. It’s a little dry and rustic, but there’s appealing fruit sweetness beneath it: figgy, yet surprisingly youthful, with bramble and blackberry fruit.
2008 Vinícola del Nordest, Anubis Reserva, Empordà, Empordà
( €14, 15% )A high-toned blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with plenty of structure and tannin. Not the subtlest wine in the world, with flavours that are starting to turn a little pruney. Pricey, too.
2010 Castillo Perelada, Finca La Garriga, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 14% )A varietal Samsó (Cariñena) from one the region’s most ambitious producers, this is a modern style Emporda red with lashings of sweet oak. The freshness and spiciness of the Samsó give the wine lift and balance, with dark, black fruits to the fore. A wine that needs some time in the bottle to show at its best.
2008 Arché Pagès, Bonfill, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )Attractive, oak-tinged blend of Grenache, Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a modern, aromatic, still-youthful blend with refreshing acidity, harmonious tannins, appealing sweetness and a long, tapering finish. Very complex.
2012 Cooperatiu agricola Gariguella, Puntils, Emporda, Empordà
( €4, 13.5% )Combining Tempranillo, Garnatxa and Merlot, this is a grassy, strawberry-scented red with refreshing acidity. It’s a little developed perhaps, but at €4 who’s complaining?
2009 Pere Guardiola , Floresta Criança, Empordà, Empordà
( €7.50, 14.5% )Aromatic, grassy Bordeaux style blend with some Grenache and Syrah for added complexity. The tannins are a little firm here, but the fruit is still fresh and sweet, with cassis and blueberry to the fore.
2011 Espelt Viticultors, Old Vines Carignan, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 14% )Modern, blackberry, bramble and liquorice-scented Carignan aimed at the export market with good texture, medium weight tannins, well-integrated oak and a firm, food friendly finish. Make sure you drink this with robust food.
2010 Vinyes dels Aspres, S’Alou, Empordà, Empordà
( €25, 15% )The top wine from this outstanding bodega, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cariñena and very impressive it is, too. Sweet, vanilla oak, red fruits, subtle spice, with white pepper and a savoury flourish.
2012 Celler d’en Guilla, Vinya del Metge, Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 13% )Pale, Provence-style rosé in a stylish package, this brings the Côte d’Azur to the Costa Brava. A tangy, food friendly rosé with subtle, rosehip and raspberry fruit and good, underlying acidity. Very drinkable.
2012 Terra Remota, Tan Natural Tempranillo, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 13% )Unusually for Empordà (uniquely?) this is a varietal, organically-farmed Tempranillo with minimal sulphur. It’s the cheapest red from the bodega: vibrant and juicy, with plum and raspberry fruit and good concentration.