Another winery that is in the running for my heavy bottle Burgundy award. Mid garnet/red in colour. The palate shows sweet oak, reasonable concentration, some raspeberry coulis notes and good acidity, with appealing balance. It’s more of a village level wine than a Grand Cru, but it’s still a decent Pinot.
Score Range: 91-95
2009 Henri de Villamont, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Very, very pale, almost transparent Pinot. Delicate and very subtle with red fruits, a hint of forest floor and wild mushrooms. Long and refined with grainy, sculpted tannins, refreshing acidity and a long finish. The wine needs a little more concentration perhaps.
2009 Sylvain Loichet, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Mid ruby/garnet. Aromatic, modern style with quite a bit of oak. Firm and slightly chunky on the palate, but there’s more than enough fruit underneath for balance. A wine that is still in the starting blocks. Give it some time and it will hit its stride.
2009 Joseph Drouhin, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Consistently among my favourite négociants in Burgundy, Drouhin makes very good wines at every level. This is delicate pink in colour. On the nose and palate, it’s remarkably elegant for a 2009, with no sign of high alcohol. Refined and aromatic with rose petal and tomato leaf scents, leading on to fresh, cherry and wild stawberry fruit. Appealingly understated.
2009 Jean Grivot, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )I am a huge fan of the 2010s from Etienne Grivot’s Vosne-Romanée-based domaine, so the 2009s inevitably suffer by comparison. But this is still a very good wine: quite oaky at the moment, but with excellent underlying sweetness, crunchy acidity and rich black fruits. The oak should intergrate over the next five years.
2009 Jacques Prieur, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Famous for its amazing Grand Cru holdings, Jacques Prieur hits the heights more often with its whites than its reds. That’s not to play down the quality of this wine, which is very good indeed; rather it is intended to praise the Côte de Beaune wines. This is aromatic and smoky, with subtle oak, sweet red fruits and enough structure and tannin to age.
2009 Domaine de la Vougeraie, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )The quality of this Boisset-owned domaine within a négociant is consistently outstanding, thanks to very good vineyards and the talent of winemaker Pierre Vincent. This is very pale and elegant on the nose and palate, almost ethereal in fact. It may not age for a long time, but it’s delicious now, with notes of redcurrant and sweet raspberries.
2009 Vincent Girardin, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Youthful mid garnet/ruby. Made in a very aromatic, modern style, that might be OTT to some. It’s got quite a bit of grip and tanni, with lots of flashy oak and ripe, sweet fruit. I’d like fewer splinters, but this is still an ambitious wine.
2009 Jean-Luc Aegerter, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )A new name to me, but one to remember, for this is a stylish wine. Youthful and light, albeit in a modern, fruity style, with sweet oak backed up by scented pomegranate and raspberry fruit and subtly interwoven oak. Fresh and lively on the palate with very good length and appealing sweetness.
2009 Thibault Liger-Belair, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )A Nuits St Georges-based producer whose wines are improving with every vintage, Thibault Liger-Belair makes wines that age well, but have plenty of fruit in their youth. This is a little alcoholic on the palate (hard to avoid in 2009), but has attractive cherrystone and raspberry fruit, subtle oak and enough frehsness and minerality to develop in bottle.
2009 Gros Frère et Soeur, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Slightly cloudy mid-garnet hued. Leafy, truffley, red fruits nose. The wine is oaky and dense on the palate with fresh acidity. It’s pretty closed at the moment, but this is serious stuff: concentrated, smoky and naunced. Give it at least five years.
2009 Hubert Chauvenet-Chopin, Clos de Vougeot, Burgundy
( ££££, 13.5%, Fine + Rare )Mid ruby/garnet. Smoky, oak-dominated nose that is still closed at present. There’s a hint of volatility here, but it adds a lift to the sweet, concentrated fruit. The wine is a little over-ripe and jammy, but it has hidden depths.