The top wine from this outstanding bodega, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cariñena and very impressive it is, too. Sweet, vanilla oak, red fruits, subtle spice, with white pepper and a savoury flourish.
Country: Spain
2008 Vinícola del Nordest, Anubis Reserva, Empordà, Empordà
( €14, 15% )A high-toned blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with plenty of structure and tannin. Not the subtlest wine in the world, with flavours that are starting to turn a little pruney. Pricey, too.
2011 Espelt Viticultors, Old Vines Carignan, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 14% )Modern, blackberry, bramble and liquorice-scented Carignan aimed at the export market with good texture, medium weight tannins, well-integrated oak and a firm, food friendly finish. Make sure you drink this with robust food.
2010 Arché Pagès, Ull de Serp, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 15.5% )A single-vineyard Garnatxa made in a ripe, slightly raisiny style with firm tannins and marked alcohol. Well made, but I can’t see this improving in the bottle. A little dry, with too much oak for the weight of fruit.
2012 Cooperatiu agricola Gariguella, Puntils, Emporda, Empordà
( €4, 13.5% )Combining Tempranillo, Garnatxa and Merlot, this is a grassy, strawberry-scented red with refreshing acidity. It’s a little developed perhaps, but at €4 who’s complaining?
2009 Pere Guardiola , Floresta Criança, Empordà, Empordà
( €7.50, 14.5% )Aromatic, grassy Bordeaux style blend with some Grenache and Syrah for added complexity. The tannins are a little firm here, but the fruit is still fresh and sweet, with cassis and blueberry to the fore.
2008 Celler Brugarol, Bell-Lloc, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )A blend of Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Samsó, this has a strange, pine resin-like nose reminiscent of Retsina. The palate is a little earthy, with some baked, drying tannins and fading fruit.
2009 Terra Remota, Clos Adrien, Empordà, Empordà
( €40 , 15% )A rich, slightly figgy blend of Syrah and Grenache with spicy oak, firm tannins and notes of rosemary and thyme. Rich and dense, with a slightly drying finish. The alcohol is a little marked on the finish.
2012 Celler d’en Guilla, Vinya del Metge, Emporda, Empordà
( €8, 13% )Pale, Provence-style rosé in a stylish package, this brings the Côte d’Azur to the Costa Brava. A tangy, food friendly rosé with subtle, rosehip and raspberry fruit and good, underlying acidity. Very drinkable.
2012 Terra Remota, Tan Natural Tempranillo, Empordà, Empordà
( €12, 13% )Unusually for Empordà (uniquely?) this is a varietal, organically-farmed Tempranillo with minimal sulphur. It’s the cheapest red from the bodega: vibrant and juicy, with plum and raspberry fruit and good concentration.
2009 Celler Brugarol, Bell Lloc, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )A different blend and a different vintage, showing some reduction, a touch of sweet oak, medium weight tannins and refreshing acidity. Once more, I’d like more fruit and weight on the palate.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 1/09 Samsó Pissarra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )As its name suggests, this is grown on slate soils. It’s a single vineyard Cariñena with impressive elegance and refreshing acidity to balance the high alcohol. Textured, spicy and very Mediterranean with notes of wild thyme and fennel.