Made for M&S by Taylor’s brilliant winemaker, David Guimaraens, this is the kind of Tawny Port that makes grown men (and women) cry. It’s a very fine fortified, with a delicious balance between nutty, figgy fruit, added spirit and mature, barrel-aged rancio notes. Very sweet and very long on the palate, it would make a perfect Christmas treat.
Price Range: £30-£50
2004 Waitrose Brut Special Reserve Vintage Champagne
( £30.99 down to £23.25, 12%, Waitrose )Waitrose doesn’t source its Vintage Champagne from P&C Heidsieck any more, alas, so get hold of this amazing fizz while it’s still on the shelves. It’s toasty and rich, with layer upon layer of flavour, fine bubbles, incredible length and just enough dosage to balance the acidity. A complex, savoury bubbly that’s a steal under £30.
2009 Castillo Perelada, Finca Malaveïna, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14% )Blending Mediterranean and Bordeaux varieties to good effect, this is an ambitious, savoury, concentrated red with sturdy tannins, marked oak and youthful, intense, blackberry and mulberry fruit.
2009 Can Sais, Expressió Zero Sulfits, Baix Empordà, Empordà
( €30, 15% )Pure Grenache, with only 800 bottles made, all of them without sulphur. Classy, aromatic and bright, with lovely perfume, sweet tannins, good acidity and juicy, raspberry and wild strawberry fruit and some wild herbs. A very well-balanced wine.
2006 Castillo Perelada, Gran Claustro, Empordà, Empordà
( €30, 14% )Using Cabernet, Merlot, Grenache and Cariñena, this is a classic Emporda blend, albeit in a modern style with plenty of new oak. Deeply coloured, concentrated and oaky with cassis and blackberry fruit, firmish tannins and a chewy finish.
2010 Espelt Viticultors, Coma Bruna, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )The top wine from this exciting winery is a blend of Cariñena and Syrah, with heady, spicy perfume to the fore and sweet, spicy vanilla oak. The bite and rusticity of the Cariñena kicks in on the palate, giving the wine acidity, tannin and a hint of what Australians call grunt. Complex stuff.
2008 Vinyes d’Olivardots, Gresa, Alt Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )Maturing nicely, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet with sweet, balsamic notes, ripe, figgy fruit, some wild herbs and well-integrated alcohol. Appealingly complex.
2006 Empordàlia, Antima, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 14.5% )A big improvement on the 2005 from this co-op, this is brighter, fresher and more alive. It’s a little dry and rustic, but there’s appealing fruit sweetness beneath it: figgy, yet surprisingly youthful, with bramble and blackberry fruit.
2008 Arché Pagès, Bonfill, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )Attractive, oak-tinged blend of Grenache, Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a modern, aromatic, still-youthful blend with refreshing acidity, harmonious tannins, appealing sweetness and a long, tapering finish. Very complex.
2010 Vinyes dels Aspres, S’Alou, Empordà, Empordà
( €25, 15% )The top wine from this outstanding bodega, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cariñena and very impressive it is, too. Sweet, vanilla oak, red fruits, subtle spice, with white pepper and a savoury flourish.
2010 Arché Pagès, Ull de Serp, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 15.5% )A single-vineyard Garnatxa made in a ripe, slightly raisiny style with firm tannins and marked alcohol. Well made, but I can’t see this improving in the bottle. A little dry, with too much oak for the weight of fruit.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 1/09 Samsó Pissarra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )As its name suggests, this is grown on slate soils. It’s a single vineyard Cariñena with impressive elegance and refreshing acidity to balance the high alcohol. Textured, spicy and very Mediterranean with notes of wild thyme and fennel.