A blend of Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Samsó, this has a strange, pine resin-like nose reminiscent of Retsina. The palate is a little earthy, with some baked, drying tannins and fading fruit.
2009 Celler Brugarol, Bell Lloc, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )A different blend and a different vintage, showing some reduction, a touch of sweet oak, medium weight tannins and refreshing acidity. Once more, I’d like more fruit and weight on the palate.
2011 Espelt Viticultors,Terres Negres, Empordà, Empordà
( €11, 14% )Pure Cariñena from a winery that combines the best of traditional and modern philosophies, producing wines with integrity. A rich, lightly-oaked, stylish red that shows the grape variety at its best with plum and sweet, figgy fruit and good minearlity and freshness.
2010 Roig Parals, Camí de Cormes, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 15% )The top wine from Roig Parals, sourced from an old, low-yielding vineyard named after a Civil War escape route through the Pyrenees. With incense and wild herbs on the nose, this is like walking into a Catholic church during high mass. Dense and concentrated, with subtle oak, layer upon layer of wild, spicy , herbal flavours, medium-weight, tarry tannins and a sweet core of fruit sustained by refreshing acidity.
2009 Castillo Perelada, Finca Malaveïna, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14% )Blending Mediterranean and Bordeaux varieties to good effect, this is an ambitious, savoury, concentrated red with sturdy tannins, marked oak and youthful, intense, blackberry and mulberry fruit.
2011 Terra Remota, Camino, Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 14% )A stylish, well-balanced blend of Grenache, Syrah, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon couched in an international style. Aromatic, raspberry and bramble fruit with sweet vanilla oak, bright acidity and smooth tannins.
2008 Mas Romeu, Finca Malesa, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 15% )Made by Delfi ?, Perelada’s head winemaker, on a consultancy basis, this cuvée of Grenache and Merlot is savoury and sweet, with warming alcohol and some attractive green pepper and balsamic notes.
2010 Can Sais, Selecció, Baix Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 15% )A Merlot, Grenache and Tempranillo blend showing some reduction and slightly baked, extracted aromas and flavours. A little chewy and dry, this is a wine that needs more fruit sweetness for balance.
Castillo Perelada, Ex Ex 9, Empordà 2010/2011, Empordà
( €50, 14.5% )Ex ex stands exceptional experiences, apparently, with this being the ninth release under this label. Aromatic, alcoholic and eucalyptus-perfumed, this is a revolutionary blend of Sangiovese and Nero d’Avola with bright acidity, medium tannins and good structure, with vanilla oak adding an extra layer of flavour.
2006 Castillo Perelada, Gran Claustro, Empordà, Empordà
( €30, 14% )Using Cabernet, Merlot, Grenache and Cariñena, this is a classic Emporda blend, albeit in a modern style with plenty of new oak. Deeply coloured, concentrated and oaky with cassis and blackberry fruit, firmish tannins and a chewy finish.
2010 Espelt Viticultors, Coma Bruna, Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )The top wine from this exciting winery is a blend of Cariñena and Syrah, with heady, spicy perfume to the fore and sweet, spicy vanilla oak. The bite and rusticity of the Cariñena kicks in on the palate, giving the wine acidity, tannin and a hint of what Australians call grunt. Complex stuff.
2008 Vinyes d’Olivardots, Gresa, Alt Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )Maturing nicely, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet with sweet, balsamic notes, ripe, figgy fruit, some wild herbs and well-integrated alcohol. Appealingly complex.