A good example of a mature blend of Merlot, Grenache, Syrah and Cabernet, with fresh, grassy acidity, medium weight tannins and a chewy undertone. Drink up, as the fruit is starting to fade a little.
Red Varietal: Cabernet Sauvignon
2009 Vinyes dels Aspres, Negre dels Aspres, Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 15% )The more popular David Molas’ wines become the less we will see reds with some bottle age, which is a shame as these certainly develop over time. Combining Cariñena, Garnacha, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a stylish, spicy, sun-kissed wine with subtle oak and notes of incense and dried herbs.
2008 Celler Brugarol, Bell-Lloc, Empordà, Empordà
( €16, 13.5% )A blend of Grenache, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon and Samsó, this has a strange, pine resin-like nose reminiscent of Retsina. The palate is a little earthy, with some baked, drying tannins and fading fruit.
2011 Terra Remota, Camino, Empordà, Empordà
( €15, 14% )A stylish, well-balanced blend of Grenache, Syrah, Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon couched in an international style. Aromatic, raspberry and bramble fruit with sweet vanilla oak, bright acidity and smooth tannins.
2008 Vinyes d’Olivardots, Gresa, Alt Empordà, Empordà
( €20, 14.5% )Maturing nicely, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cariñena, Syrah and Cabernet with sweet, balsamic notes, ripe, figgy fruit, some wild herbs and well-integrated alcohol. Appealingly complex.
2008 Arché Pagès, Bonfill, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )Attractive, oak-tinged blend of Grenache, Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a modern, aromatic, still-youthful blend with refreshing acidity, harmonious tannins, appealing sweetness and a long, tapering finish. Very complex.
2010 Vinyes dels Aspres, S’Alou, Empordà, Empordà
( €25, 15% )The top wine from this outstanding bodega, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cariñena and very impressive it is, too. Sweet, vanilla oak, red fruits, subtle spice, with white pepper and a savoury flourish.
2012 Cooperatiu Agricola Garriguella, Gerisena Selecció, Emporda, Empordà
( €11, 145% )Vibrant, youthful, aromatic blend of Cabernet, Merlot and Grenache with the emphasis on juicy fruit flavours of red cherry and plum rather than oak. The wine carries its alcohol with ease, thanks to the fresh acidity here.
2006 Castillo Perelada, Finca Garbet, Empordà, Empordà
( €100 , 14.5% )The most photographed vineyard in Catalunya (and one of the most ambitiously priced), this is minty, herbal and surprisingly youthful for a 2006. Syrah with a little Cabernet Sauvignon, showing lots of oak, sweet fruit and a firm finish. An ambitious wine that should age further in bottle.
2011 Jordi Oliver, Joc Negre, Emporda, Empordà
( €7.50, 14.5 )A Rhône meets Bordeaux blend, via Emporda of course, this is a four-way cuvée of Garnatxa, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Floral and nuanced, with subtle red fruits that nod towards Pinot Noir, despite the alcohol, backed up by minerality and balance. Drink it chilled.
2012 Vinyes dels Aspres, Oriol Negre, Empordà, Empordà
( €6, 14.5% )Blending Cariñena, Garnatxa and Cabernet Sauvignon to good effect, David Molas has produced an unoaked cuvée with lots of character. The alcohol isn’t apparent here, thanks to the fresh acidity, while the tannins are surrounded by sweet raspberry fruit. A winery that never lets you down.
2008 Vinícola del Nordest, Anubis Reserva, Empordà, Empordà
( €14, 15% )A high-toned blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon with plenty of structure and tannin. Not the subtlest wine in the world, with flavours that are starting to turn a little pruney. Pricey, too.