94

2024 Zwartwater Estate White, Paardeberg, Swartland

( £24, 13.5%, The Wine Society )

Something of a coup for the Wine Society, where buyer Victoria Mason MW is doing exciting things with the retailer’s South African range, this is a new wine from a historic estate on the Paardeberg, now under new ownership as they say in the hotel trade. It’s a brilliant, layered, complex blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Marsanne and the Hungarian grape Hárslevelü, with aromas of honeysuckle, fennel and wet stone and a tangy, racy palate of orange zest, pear and pink grapefruit. A wine that looks every bit as good as it tastes.

BuyDrinking window: 2026-30Similar Wines: £20-25, 90-94, White, Cheni Blanc, Harslevelu, Marsanne, Viognier