Blending Cariñena, Garnatxa and Cabernet Sauvignon to good effect, David Molas has produced an unoaked cuvée with lots of character. The alcohol isn’t apparent here, thanks to the fresh acidity, while the tannins are surrounded by sweet raspberry fruit. A winery that never lets you down.
Red Varietal: Carignan
2008 Arché Pagès, Bonfill, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )Attractive, oak-tinged blend of Grenache, Cariñena and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a modern, aromatic, still-youthful blend with refreshing acidity, harmonious tannins, appealing sweetness and a long, tapering finish. Very complex.
2008 Empordàlia, Coromina, Empordà, Empordà
( €9, 14.5% )A varietal Cariñena from one of the better co-ops in the region. This is a tarry, slightly chewy red with plenty of tannin, notes of wild Mediterranean herbs and refreshing acidity. The fruit is drying a little on the palate.
2010 Vinyes dels Aspres, S’Alou, Empordà, Empordà
( €25, 15% )The top wine from this outstanding bodega, this is a cuvée of Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cariñena and very impressive it is, too. Sweet, vanilla oak, red fruits, subtle spice, with white pepper and a savoury flourish.
2009 Maset Plana, A21, Empordà, Empordà
( €8, 14% )A rather old-fashioned blend of Merlot, Grenache and Cariñena that has seen better days. The tannins are drying out the fruit here, leaving a pruney, leathery residue on the palate.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 1/09 Samsó Pissarra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )As its name suggests, this is grown on slate soils. It’s a single vineyard Cariñena with impressive elegance and refreshing acidity to balance the high alcohol. Textured, spicy and very Mediterranean with notes of wild thyme and fennel.
2007 Mas Llunes, Rhodes, Empordà, Empordà
( €9 , 14.5% )Named after the Roman term for Roses, this is a rich, profoundly coloured blend of Cariñena and Syrah. Chewy, concentrated and showing some oak, this is a little dry, but has enough fruit sweetness for balance. A little rustic.
2009 Vinyes d’Olivardots, V.D.O 2/09 Samsó Sorra, Empordà, Empordà
( €35, 15% )This is sourced from sandy soils, but it’s another single vineyard, old vine Cariñena. Richer, denser and more oxidative in style, this is figgy and slightly dry with a balsamic undertone. More tannic, too.
2009 Celler Cooperatiu Espolla, Clos de les Dòmines, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 14.5% )Grassy, concentrated blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cariñena from an ambitious co-operative. The tannins are a tad firm, but this is a serious, cassis-scented red with fresh acidity and a hint of greenness.
2005 Coop Agricola Garriguella, Dolç de Gerisena, Emporda, Empordà
( €10, 16.5% )Mature, full-flavoured blend of Garnatxa and Cariñena, showing rich, liquoricey fruit flavours, notes of dried figs and herbs, some spirit and a fiery finish. Dry and a little too hot, this should be drunk now.
2009 Martí Fabra, Vinyes Velles, Empordà, Empordà
( €10, 15% )Old vine Cariñena and Garnacha that expresses the essence of Empordà. Rich, concentrated an slightly rustic with high-toned notes of fig, volatile acidity and wild herbs. Needs food.
2008 Martí Fabra, Masia Carreras, Empordà, Empordà
( €18, 15% )A Cariñena-based blend with some bottle age. Despite the high alcohol, this is a stylish wine, with savoury tannins, sweet flavours of fig and wild strawberry and a rich, satisfying finish.