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2017 Scala Dei Heretge, Priorat

( €50, 15%, Available from the winery )

Called Heretge (heretic) because it’s made, unusually for Priorat, with just Cariñena, this is produced with grapes from two vineyards, planted in 1908 and 1918, that face north and south-east respectively on classic slate soils. Grippier and more savoury than the other Scala Dei wines, but this is still refreshing, stony and red-fruited, with some underlying grip and tannin and notes of bramble and red cherry. A stairway to hell rather than heaven perhaps?

BuyDrinking window: 2022-30Similar Wines: €50-60, 90-94, Spain, Red, Cariñena