I arrived in Puligny, at my friend Maryâs house, the other weekend, and she handed me a flĂ»te salĂ©e from her favourite boulangerie in Beaune. It was celestial: an apotheosis...
Transformations
Spanish Strategies
The setting was magical, steep terraces plunging to the River Miño below. But JosĂ© Moure was hard-headed about the challenges: âWeâre in crisis â the big buyers bought very few...
Contemplating Complantation
Contemplating complantation may not be the sexiest of titles, but in a volatile world of climate change and uncertainty perhaps itâs time to look back in shaping the future. âBack...
A Fruity Number
I know we’ve just come through the silly season, when tales of killer chipmunks and dolphin sign language deputise for what’s normally classed as news in the British media, but...
Drink Promiscuously
It bothers me that wine drinkers frequently choose wine based on colour, or indeed dismiss those of the “wrong” colour. I have encountered this discrimination most overtly in the rosĂ©...
Collecting Flavour
Every trade has its sartorial call-signs. The wine trade plays host to the fraternity-of-the-red-trouser, its membership made up of legs that appear to have filled, loafer-to-belt, with decades of luncheon...
Future Forward
What weâll be drinking in 2029 In my grandmotherâs kitchen thereâs a cover of The Sunday Times Magazine stuck on one of the cupboards. Itâs the final edition from 2009,...
Back to the future
Fine wines are timeless â that elusive combination of elegance, complexity and gravitas, plus ageing potential in spades. Their prices unfortunately are not. Top rank Bordeaux, Burgundy or mature Barolos...
