The Wine Society has made a specialism of Greece and it’s paid off in the quality of the stuff they import from one of Europe’s most exciting wine-producing countries. This is a scented, zingy blend of Moschofilero and Roditis that would be ideal with a piece of grilled fish and a bowl of green olives. Flavours of lemongrass, wild thyme and citrus peel  are complemented by notes of fennel and sea salt and a hint of quinine-like bitterness. Remarkably good at the price.
White Varietal: Roditis
2020 Found Moschofilero & Roditis, Peloponnese
( £8.50, 12% )Part of an exciting new range of little known grape varieties from Marks & Spencer, most of which are at very reasonable prices, this is  a cuvée of Moschofilero with 20% Roditis from two separate vineyards in the Peloponnese peninsula. Winemaker Leonidas Nassiakos of Semeli has produced a tangy, scented, seafood friendly white with lime, lemongrass and wild herb flavours and a long, refreshing finish. Bring on the summer!
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2012 Thymiopoulos Winery, Atma Malagouzia/Roditis, Central Greece
( £10, 12%, Oddbins )Greek white varieties deserve to be better appreciated, partly because theu retain acidity and pefume in a warm climate. This is a case in point: aromatic, lime-scented and surprisingly light, with good, sappy acidity and undertones of summer flowers.